A Day in Dar es Salaam and a Friend Forever

Location:
Egypt

Ramadan, Cairo, Egypt

By Daniel Head

On my third day in Cairo, I jumped on the rickety subway, with no map or plan, and hopped into the first car that came my way. I wanted to get far enough out of downtown that I wasn’t surrounded by tourists, but not so far away that I’d be in the middle of nowhere. I went about eight stops southbound and got off at the only station I could pronounce - Dar es Salaam.

It was the Muslim month of Ramadan and the city was preparing for Eid al Fitr in a few days. Dawn was nearing, and the market was bustling. I couldn’t see any other white faces but mine, but no one approached me for money or tried to sell me papyrus or plastic camels. I was pleased with myself.

I walked around freely, feeling at one with the culture. Children stared, women giggled, and several men greeted me with the typical “Asalamu alaykum.” I was feeling adventurous and kept wandering deep into the depths of this poorer part of the city. I wandered through the narrow dirt alleyways, in between the towering cement buildings, wondering just how many people lived in each. It was getting darker, and I wasn’t sure of my way back to the station, but I felt at such peace with this place, never once fearing for my safety.

I saw a few children and men chatting and kicking a soccer ball in the alley in front of a small, one story, mud building with a tin roof and dirt floors. I smiled and waived and was about to pass when the man smiled back and extended his hand. His name was Osman. He didn’t speak English but made it obvious that he thought I was lost and looking for my way. I didn’t speak Arabic yet, but made it known that I was curious and exploring. The sun was setting and he invited me into his home for the daily “iftar”, or breaking of the fast.

We sat down, with newspapers laid down in front of us, blocking the food from the dirt floor. I could hardly believe the feast they’d prepared. Baladee bread, lentils, foul and tamaya, and humas - all the Egyptian staples. I had just noticed that one family member was absent, when he returned with a small, whole, roasted chicken. Osman set it in front of me and said “Welcome!”. I refused politely, but he insisted I eat it. I tried to share with everyone, much to their dismay. I ate the entire chicken while the family sat and smiled at me, able to provide for a last minute foreign visitor. They were happy; I was happy. They had nothing, yet so eager to give. I had everything, and they would not accept anything in return.

I started going back once a week to learn Arabic, teach them English, and enjoy the company and food. They enjoyed the Egyptian baklawa and peanuts I’d bring, playing with my digital camera, and laughing at my horrible Arabic. Osman got married three months later and I was the guest of honor, able to stand on the stage with him and his family right there in the dirt alley where we’d met. A year later I heard of the birth of Sondus, his new baby girl, and was able to make it back to meet the new addition of his family and catch up. I now spoke better Arabic, and was touched when he explained, more eloquently than I could, that “love needs to language.” Egyptian hospitality and kindness is one of a kind.

Further Information

Other helpful information: Travelers to Egypt should avoid tourist areas. Take one day and see the Pyramids, Khan el Khalili, Islamic Cairo, and the Citadel. Spend the rest of your time visiting local ahwas (coffee shops), shopping in local markets, and adventuring.

Must see/do at this place: Besides the typical tourist stops, falucca boats, and such, try a sheesha or coffee on the Nile at Grand Cafe Maadi, dine at Abu Seid in Zamalak, visit Dar es Salaam.

You should avoid here: Tourist areas. Egypt has no history of crime, and extremely rare reports of rape, theft, murder, muggings, etc. As a man, go anywhere and do anything you like. As a woman, walk with confidence, don't be disgusted at any whistling, and wear pants or a skirt below the knee to avoid any unwanted advances. No one means any harm though, no matter how they hiss at you.