Viewing the Thundering Smoke

Location:
Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls

viewing the falls

By Sophie Forbes

Bungi Jumping is now no longer the surprising phenomenon it once was, unless you jump from an unexpected place. Many impressive waterfalls exist throughout the world, where jumping opportunities occur, but few qualify as one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World and a World Heritage Site.

The Victoria Falls, which spans the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia on the River Zambezi, meets these criteria, allowing visitors to jump at the exact spot where the two countries meet. I watched from the bridge as jumper after jumper made their 111 meter descent towards the Zambezi River, arching through a rainbow, glad I was safely on the bridge.

I learned from a local pamphlet that the falls official name is Mosi-oa-Tunya or the smoke that thunders. This title is perfect as I first spotted clouds of spray during the taxi ride from that airport to the hotel, which was over 15 kilometers away from the falls.

I had been told that the Zimbabwe government considered renaming the falls after its official title, but decided to keep the current name in order not to confuse tourists, given the need for hard currency. The name of Victoria Falls was given by David Livingstone, a British missionary, who is viewed as the western “discoverer” of the falls in 1855. I found his statues, relics of the colonial past, in both parks commemorating him on his finding.

On my first trip to the Zimbabwean park entrance I was bombarded with offers to rent a raincoat, which I did not believe I needed until I saw a group of tourists emerging from the gate in them. I entered to find paths that wound in an out of a surrounding rainforest, allowing me to wander around for over an hour and a half, viewing the falls from multiply angles and especially seeing their breadth and deepness.

Along the way I spotted monkeys, birds and a few wild warthogs, that are a specialty dish I tried later on in my trip, along with ostrich and crocodile. (None taste as different as they sound, but still worth the experience!) As I climbed down closer to the falls, their roar blotted out all other sounds and I had to shout to speak to anyone else, but the noise and the drenching spray were well worth the views of rushing water and the continual rainbows that seemed to endlessly sprout from the rapids.

I took a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River from the Zambia side and saw breathtaking scenes of the river above the falls, a beautiful sunset as well as hippos, various birds, and a crocodile. Afterwards I caught an evening view of the falls from the Zambian side, whose paths allowed me to get right up to the edge of the river at the top of the falls. Luckily that day was also a full moon and I caught a once-a-month occurrence: a spectacular white rainbow arching over the falls.

Further Information

Travel tips: If you decide to stay on the Zimbabwe side of the falls be sure to exchange money before coming to the area. Most things are charged at the official bank rate which makes hotels and some restaurants very expensive. I was told Zambia was more affordable and when I went for the day it appeared more low key than Zimbabwe.

Must see/do at this place: Visit Falls on both side

Sunset cruise

Night view of the falls, if there on full moon its terrific!

Safari

Bungee Jumping

Baobab tree near entrance of falls

You should avoid here: The town of Victoria Falls is not very large or exciting and only worth 1 hour of exploring. Buying crafts in the town is too expensive, better prices in Harare.