Hasedera

Location:
Japan

Hase Temple Kamakura

By Angela Hughes

It is widely believed that in the year 711, an eager priest in Nara, Japan, had two sculptors carve a pair of eleven-headed Kannon statues out of a single block of camphor wood. One statue was dedicated to the temple in Nara and the other was cast into the sea, in hopes that it would find its true home along the coastline and bring karmic harmony to all sentient beings there. In the year 736, it washed up on the shores of Nagai, located near the town of Kamakura, where court noble Fusasaki Fujiwara had it enshrined. Some 1300 years later, it still sits on the grounds of Hasedera (Hase Temple) in cozy Kamakura.

I have visited the temple grounds of Hase many times, with its crumbling steps; gnarled, ancient bonsai trees; and tiered-landscape. It is a place that I never tire of and there is a calmness here that I’ve never found anywhere else. Hase always reminds me that coexistence between the individual and nature is meant to be, not something that happens by chance, and the temple’s tranquility solidifies this bond. The journey begins on the first level of three, where a mysterious labyrinth of caves cuts into the hillside on which Hase rests, and the merging of Buddhism and Shintoism is apparent, as a red Shinto tori gate announces the entrance. The caves are lit only by small candles resting on altars throughout, and anyone over 5 feet tall must crouch to walk through certain sections of the maze. There are several large rooms linked together by a long tunnel, and each area is flanked by statues of the messengers of Benten, the goddess of eloquence, music, and wisdom. A damp, mustiness permeates the air and incense burning only highlights the age, assuring the visitor that many monks have sat in thoughtful meditation in these rooms for over a thousand years.

Just outside the caves is a bubbly koi pond, churned by a natural bamboo fountain. Rocks, water lilies, and small shrubs engulf this small body of water as it welcomes each traveler into the light of day. Not knowing that there are two more levels to this beautiful oasis, a visitor might leave quite content, having explored the caves, meditated by the pond, and peeked in on the small buildings used for temple activities. Looking closely, one will find the unassuming stairs for the climb up which are as old as they appear, intimacy growing as the space narrows. It is amazing to be in step with the faithful monks that keep the grounds of Hase, often found sweeping the steps with traditional thatch brooms that look as inherited as the place itself.

The second level is cramped in comparison, but its message is substantial. Here, lining and crawling up the walls, are shelves upon shelves of miniature jizo statues, in memory of children no longer living. Little trinkets are laid carefully before many of the statues—a Winnie the Pooh Bear, a box of orange juice, a Hello Kitty key chain. Infant deaths, abortions, childhood accidents—it doesn’t really matter how or why they are here, but it does provide a little relief to the parents, knowing that each child has his or her own jizo praying for safety, comfort, and eternal life. Some of the statues are covered in red cloth bibs with dainty little ties cinched at the back, providing warmth when the sun ducks behind the hillside each evening. This is a delicate hollow for remembrances, cradled between the lulling pond below and the harmony inspiring Kannon above.

The third level opens up into the side of the hill and the panoramic view is breathtaking. On a sunny day, Sagami Bay sparkles to the south and the gold and silver rooftops of nearby temples and shrines capture the brilliant light. The 30-foot statue of Kannon sits majestically in a beautifully-aged building where the dim lighting brings focus to the intricate carvings. This is the largest wooden statue in Japan and its dimensions are stunning, considering the fact that it floated in the sea for 15 years before finding a home in Kamakura. The visit is not complete without taking a turn on the Kyozo, a large revolving sutra storehouse, with gorgeous wooden dowels allowing a group of two or three people to push it in a circular motion. Tourists often mistake this for a prayer wheel, when in fact, it is simply the storage facility for the many sutras belonging to Hasedera. Legend says that by pushing the massive storehouse, one will be enlightened with the knowledge of all the sutras without reading them. I, myself, have taken many turns on the Kyozo, in hopes of finding a deeper peace within. If ever there was a place that I would like to retire to, it would be Kamakura, close to Hasedera. Just knowing that this temple could be part of my daily ritual makes Kamakura a tempting choice for later-life reflection.

Further Information

Other helpful information: Leave yourself at least two hours before closing to fully explore the grounds.

Must see/do at this place: The caves, the jizo statues on the 2nd level, and the massive Kannon on the 3rd level are all must sees.

You should avoid here: Try to avoid busy holidays and check for closures -- temples and shrines are sometimes closed at random times on random days of the month.