Haedongyonggungsa Temple

Location:
Korea, South

Temple Visit, Buddhism, Pusan

By Martha Burla

I got on a bus excited to see a beautiful temple, but about 20 minutes later I got off feeling like I was lost somewhere in the Korean countryside. The crowds of people and tall buildings of the city had been replaced by a few shacks, a man burning something in a barrel and lots of trees. The temple's "entrance" was actually a dirt road leading uphill through the woods. The first sign of life wasn't the temple, but instead an outdoor market with people selling everything from Ginseng root and fish on a stick to Buddha statues and ceramic pigs.

Finally, after almost turning back several times, I came to a path lined with statues of warriors and the animals of the zodiac. I passed several people making offerings at a large pagoda and followed a group down a flight of stairs, past an incredibly fat and happy Buddha and through a tunnel.

That's when I finally saw Haedongyonggungsa Temple, which is built into rocky cliffs overlooking the ocean. It felt just like I imagine all temples should feel- completely peaceful and separate from the real world. Although there were plenty of Korean tourists snapping pictures, there were also a lot of people who were just there to pray. I was the only foreigner. There were no city noises, so I could enjoy the way that the normal temple sounds of chimes and chanting blended perfectly with the sound of waves crashing against the rocks. I also will never forget watching one woman bow before a Buddha statue on a small rock outcropping.

I had originally come to the temple for the beauty of its location, but as I continued exploring I kept finding new reasons to love it. Crossing the bridge into the temple I looked down and was rewarded by the sight of stone turtles, cranes and ducks placed in a waterfall that trickled into the ocean below me. I almost laughed as I approached two huge gold pigs, only to turn the corner and be silenced by the sight of people praying before an even larger gold Buddha. I noticed rock ledges filled with colorful figures of little Buddhas doing everything from praying and reading to napping and playing the drums. Finally, I climbed the treacherous stone steps behind the temple to admire the intricately carved Buddha statue that was watching over everything below. In turn, it was being watched over by much smaller Buddhas carved into the rocks behind it.

As I stood next to that Buddha, admiring the view, I knew that though Haedongyonggungsa Temple may have been difficult to reach, visiting a temple that wasn't overrun with tourists or surrounded by city buildings and smog was worth it.

Further Information

Travel tips: Try to go when the weather is nice. I actually went a few hours before a big storm and it was probably a bit dangerous. The waves were really big and all of the stairs were really slippery.

Must see/do at this place: Definitely climb up the stairs or the hill behind the temple. It's a little steep but the view was great.