Bishkek Exposed

Location:
Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan, hiking, adventure

By Sarah Newton

Living in Almaty provides a plethora of opportunities to explore surrounding countries and cities in Central Asia. By far the closest and most accessible is Bishkek, the capitol of Kyrgyzstan. Bishkek is not the rapidly growing, shining cosmopolitan center that Almaty is transforming into. It is poorer, slower, and feels far more like a former Soviet relic than does Almaty. The city itself will feel familiar to any traveler who has spent time in the region- tall decaying apartment buildings, aging Ladas working as freelance taxis, and imposing Soviet-era monuments. Bishkek even retains an impressively large statue of Lenin near the city center.

Walking through the streets of Bishkek is pleasant with painters displaying their creations in the park and popcorn vendors scenting the air with their sugary-sweet aroma. The city offers several parks and a large array of cafes grilling shyshlyk, skewered meat, and serving decent beers on tap. But these charming aspects of the city are not its only side, poverty here is readily apparent with grandmothers and invalids asking for a bit of change to survive. Here those on fixed incomes can’t live on their government pensions, and if they’re family can’t help them, they must resort to begging. Bishkek wears its history and economic difficulties on its shoulders, which affords visitors to the city a poignant and honest glimpse into life in Kyrgyzstan’s capitol.

Although the city is interesting in and of itself, even greater beauty lies just outside of Bishkek. Within a half hour by car it is possible to leave the city behind and be embraced by the breathtakingly snowcapped mountains that straddle the Kazakh-Kyrgyz border. The nature reserve of Ala-Archa, about twenty miles outside of Bishkek, is a wonderfully accessible and tranquil place to spend some time away from the city. We joined some friends in the area for a day trek through the mountains, and having come in October snow had already fallen there and continued to fall during our hike. Herds of horses roaming about in a gently falling snow made the entire scene picture perfect.

In addition to Bishkek’s striking scenery, the city boasts a market that teems with traders from all over the region. I was once told that the shipping crate revolutionized trade and became the fuel that drove globalization to new heights, nowhere is the very raw essence of this idea more visible than at the market, Dordoi. Constructed of shipping crates stacked three high and many deep this “trade town” is laden with piles of fur coats, stacks of stylish jeans, and mounds of parts for various electronics. Western-style shopping obscures consumers’ understanding of how the goods they buy reach the shelves of their local department store, but here at Dordoi all is laid bare. Weaving through the maze of sellers and potential buyers you can feel the buzz of trade, the most basic perpetuation of economic growth.

It is the city’s honesty that gives it its unique character. Nothing here is hidden from view- aging Soviet monuments, poverty, and trade unadulterated by chain-stores are here for the visitor to experience at will. Bishkek hides nothing and for the adventure traveler looking for something other than prefab tourist attractions, this city is a truly satisfying place to visit.

Further Information

Travel tips: If you are planning on crossing the Kazakh-Kyrgyz border be aware that you will have to cross on foot, make sure to tell your taxi or bus to wait for you- it can take much longer for foreigners to get through both countries' visa check points.

Visas for Kyrgyzstan are easily obtainable in Almaty, and if you talk nicely to the guard at the gate of the Kyrgyz consulate you can usually get your paperwork processed without any wait.

Must see/do at this place: If you have the chance to visit Bishkek, make sure to take in the natural beauty that surrounds the city. The mountains are truly incredible!

You should avoid here: As per all usual warnings for travelers, avoid being alone at night on the streets. Pickpockets also frequent the markets, so tuck your money far away where prying hands won't be able to find it.