Visit the Headhunters of Borneo

Location:
Malaysia

Culture, Adventure

By Peter Anderson

VISITING THE HEADHUNTER’S LONGHOUSE

A Journey into Borneo and a short stay at an Iban longhouse

The Iban are an energetic people who live a communal way of life. Once feared as the Head Hunters of Borneo, the Iban today are very friendly, good humoured and generous people.

During the 45-minute boat ride from the Kuching/Miri highway bridge to the Murat longhouse your guide will brief you on longhouse etiquette. Do not step on the mats on the veranda with your shoes, the head of the longhouse should be addressed as tuai rumah and yes, you should ask questions. In fact the more the merrier as you will then appear more sociable and your host will be happy.

Your riverine journey will begin as you pass pepper and fruit plantations. After passing through rapids and gliding through the deeper waters the resonance of the cicadas will be quite overpowering. As trees shade most of the river and even though you are travelling in the tropics the air will be fresh and cool.

A break in the forest will reveal a stony bank spread beneath a thick canopy of trees. The longhouse is set amongst the trees and to reach it a series of narrow wooden stairs to the outer veranda will have to be ascended. Once at the top you will realise that this will be the start of an anthropological experience.

Mats cover the open (tanju) and covered (ruai) verandas. The ruai can be compared to a village street. It runs the full length of the longhouse and although each section in front of each family’s apartment (bilek) is private property it is used as the common thoroughfare. The tanju is used to harvest pepper, dry and winnow rice and tether their fighting cocks. Skulls, now almost black from years of smoke, hang on the posts, a grim reminder of the past.

Elderly women clad in sarongs will be seen leaning against wooden pillars, weaving rattan baskets and mats. Shy Iban children will peep from the outside and run away when they are spotted. Old men with lines as intricate as a city road map on their faces rest nonchalantly on their mats while others mend their nets. Their bodies tattooed and their earlobes almost reached their shoulders.

Despite all this, Murat with its population of 25 families is relatively modern. TV aerials juxtaposed with the rainforest trees. Inside posters of local and foreign film stars and singers adorn some of the walls. With the modern conveniences of a generator, showers and toilets life is much easier for the Iban compared to 40 years ago.

Sitting on the mats the tuai rumah and the other elders of the village will invite you to a drink of tuak, fermented rice wine. After a relaxing few hours drinking and talking you can go down to the river to assist, or in some cases hinder, the Iban to catch some fish in the river.

Occasionally a special dinner will be served. Instead of the normal dinner in the longhouse you will be treated to dinner on the banks of the river. Manok pansuh ruas, marinated chicken cooked in bamboo, will have been prepared, while chicken and fish will cook on skewers over the open fire. While all the preparations are being made you will be served more tuak, this time instead of glasses the tuak will be served in bamboo cups. Your dinner plates will be banana leafs and of course your utensils, your hands. Crackles, cackles and chatter will wrap you in an atmosphere of warmth and unity. Gathered on a mat with the river babbling by, under a clear star lit night listening to Iban myths and legends; city life will seem so far away.

After dinner, returning to the longhouse you will have the opportunity to see and buy some genuine Iban handicrafts, from intricate beadwork, woodcarvings and pua, Iban weaving. Then you will be entertained to the Ngajat, an Iban dance. The children are taught this dance from an early age and it is good to see that this tradition is not dying out. As a visitor you will be encouraged to join in, don’t be shy, the worst that can happen is that you provide some humorous entertainment for the Iban.

After a full and very entertaining day of dancing, story telling and tuak drinking you will be ready for bed, weary but exhilarated. With the clean air, or perhaps the effects of the tuak, you are sure to get a good night’s sleep.

At dawn you will be woken to the sound of crowing cocks, barking dogs and squealing pigs. After a brief swim in the cold river with the children breakfast will be served in your adopted bilek. After breakfast you can wander along the ruai and tanju and be totally fascinated by the Iban as they go about their daily chores. There is no rush or stress and watching the children leading a carefree life swimming with such gay abandon will make you wonder if their way of life is perhaps better in some ways to our so-called ‘developed lifestyle’.

You will be invited to go into the jungle with one of the elders and he will show you how they set traps, use a blowpipe and how they are now cultivating modern crops such as rubber and pepper.

Whether its watching the Iban doing the ngajat with all its grace and colour, learning to use a blowpipe, going on a fishing trip, or relaxing beside the river enjoying traditional Iban food, or having a glass of tuak with the longhouse elders - there is something for everybody at an Iban longhouse.

A stay in an Iban longhouse is recommended for all visitors to Sarawak and the memories of these charming people will linger for many years.

If you have time it is well worthwhile to visit the Kuching Museum, regarded as one of the best in South East Asia, to learn more about the Iban and the other indigenous people of Sarawak. Their history and culture is truly fascinating and a lot can be learnt from these people. Their harmonious lifestyle and self-sufficiency can teach us all lessons that are applicable today.

A visit to the Sarawak Cultural Village at Damai is another interesting experience. Here you can see the different longhouses and handicrafts from the different ethnic groups. Spend at least half a day walking through the village, watching the locals play their musical instruments, try some local cuisine and watch their dances. The Cultural Village is one of the best maintained tourist attractions in Malaysia and a visit will give you an insight into the lives of the people of Sarawak.

Further Information

Travel tips: Take mosquito repellent. Take sweets for the children and canned foodstuffs for the longhouse. Also pens and books appreciated.

Must see/do at this place: Kuching Museum and Sarawak Cultural Village at Damai Beach.

You should avoid here: Do not take photographs of young babies when you are the longhouse.