Living in Kathmandu

Location:
Nepal

Living, Teaching, Loving

By Robert Yeilding

The red sun rises over the Himalayas as a cool breeze flows off the rice patties and into my window, waking me with the scent of a nearby river. Chiyaa, tea with milk and sugar, is brought to my room by the loving mother of the Hindu family I’m living with in a village of Kathmandu nicknamed Pepsi-Cola, after the local factory. Another day begins during my five weeks of volunteer work in Nepal. After a quick breakfast I hop around puddles in the dirt road on my three-minute walk to the orphanage where I teach and support twelve beautiful children, where every morning is one of the most meaningful of my life.

After a morning pronunciation lesson, my journey begins to one of the two public schools where I also teach English. As I wait on the main road I see a dirt cloud steadily approaching and prepare myself for another public bus ride. The dirt settles as the bus slows down just enough for us waiting to grab a handle and try to squeeze our way in through the crowded bodies, occasionally just hanging on and leaning outside. It takes three bus changes to reach the school in Patan, an urban town of Kathmandu, and stepping on the wrong bus occurs far too frequently in my case. Just as I am becoming dismayed I arrive at the school to see the children’s laughing and smiling faces running to greet me. The children eagerly await anything I have to say, teaching is a dream come true. All the young ones seem to be filled half with fascination and half with fear. A boy works up his courage and ventures a timid question, “Sir, where are from?” “From America,” I reply. A small eruption and I’m soon surrounded by dozens of children and thousands of questions as the fear fades away in an instant.

The final bell rings and I follow the parade of kids down the crumbling staircase to have my customary lunch with Dawa, the Buddhist principal of the school. Today we have some quick noodles and head out on the road to visit the Boudha Stupa, a famous Buddhist temple. Dawa leads us on foot through the back roads of the Buddhist area of the city. It seems he is a friend of everyone as we stop every few minutes for a new conversation and a new cup of tea. At last we arrive at the remarkable Boudha Stupa. Hundreds of prayer flags extend out in every direction from the poignantly colorful Stupa. I am directed to walk clockwise around the Stupa as a resonant chant of “Om Mani Payme Hum” entrances me. I begin to regain normal awareness as we descend the steps and begin my journey back to Pepsi-Cola.

The sun is setting and laughter abounds back at the orphanage where I spend my evenings bringing the children treats to eat and playing games. All twelve of them swarm around me as I take turns picking them up above my head and swinging them around. I receive a few scratch marks as the anxious ones try to climb up my back. I eventually manage to depart their smiles for the evening and head home for dinner.

The air is filled with the scent of Dhal-baat, rice and lentils, on my walk home. I am quickly presented with a cup of hot lemon tea as the final preparations are being made. Ahma (mother) has prepared a special meal, Buff! Vegetable or buffalo meat filled dough balls, really tasty with a sweet peanut sauce. I am quite skilled at eating with my right hand by now and we all eat quickly. The stars begin to appear over Kathmandu Valley, Segundha and I finish the night sipping on a local whiskey and watching the slow moonrise.

Further Information

Other helpful information: Go with an open mind and a strong stomach.

Must see/do at this place: Watch the sunrise and play with the children.

You should avoid here: Tourist areas.