24-Hour Layover in Doha

Location:
Qatar

Doha, Qatar, walking tour

By Daniel Head

I had always been fascinated by the politics of Qatar, but had never had a strong desire to visit. One 24-hour layover later, and I was hooked. I didn’t know I’d be there that day, but decided to make the most of it. With the exception of the two Filipino cab drivers fighting over who would help me find an affordable hotel, making it from the airport to a comfortable bed in a room with air conditioning was painless, affordable, and very efficient. Qatar’s crime rate is virtually non-existent, and I felt safe taking risks, riding with a stranger, and even befriending a couple of men puffing on a sheesha in the lobby.

My driver picked me up the next morning, and I was already in awe as I stuck my head out the cab window, breathing in the fresh air of the Gulf from along Doha’s beautiful Corniche. He dropped me off on one end of the Corniche, and I decided to spend the day walking this 7km-long avenue of palms along Doha Bay.

Qatar is one the smallest countries in the Gulf region, and Doha doesn’t have a reputation of being the most exciting place. But a few years back I’d seen an NBC Special where Brokaw sat in a Starbucks in Qatar discussing the country’s politics with its Sheikh, and I was mesmerized ever since. Women are allowed to vote, homelessness does not exist, and the ruler, an absolute monarch, is well-liked. Some of its policies clearly displease its conservative neighbors, which made me admire it even more.

By noon I had only strolled half way down the Corniche, stopping to watch the fishermen, and admittedly stopping to stare and snap pictures of a group of fully veiled women in black gowns, as they enjoyed their morning speed walking session, complete with Nike running shoes and hand held weights.

I was sweating buckets by afternoon. The September heat was up to 100 F with what was surely at least 80% humidity. I took a stroll into Qatar’s Municipality Building to escape the heat, and hopefully to learn some more about the country’s politics. I announced I was from the USA and interested in Qatar. Within minutes, I was sitting at the desk of the Minister of Agriculture, Yousef Ahmed. He indulged my questions, critiques, and intrigues regarding his country, and then asked to give me a tour. He drove me to the site of the new stadium built for the Doha 2006 Pan-Asian Games, took me to the ritzy mall (where I happened to see the Starbucks I remembered from NBC), and he invited me to his house for tea. As we sat on the floor among plush white pillows, under a crystal chandelier, and dining on pistachio ice cream, Arabic sweets, and mint tea, we discussed politics and religion. He gave me a book about the miracles in the Quran, and since I had learned of his desire to visit Texas, I gave him a cowboy hat.

He offered me a place to stay when I returned to Qatar and took me to the airport in time for my evening flight. I had never dreamed just 24 hours before I’d fall in love with a country I never planned on visiting, plus have an invitation to come back and stay with its Minister. Carpe diem. No, carpe each hour.

Further Information

Other helpful information: Get in good with the locals. Prepare for the heat. Book a hotel ahead of time. Relax, enjoy yourself, and don't spend more than 4 or 5 days.

Must see/do at this place: Qatar National Museum, Corniche, Pearl Statue, Olympic stadiums

You should avoid here: Nothing. Do and try everything you want. Crime is virtually non-existent.