Location:
Sri Lanka

Stunning Stupas

By Peter Anderson

Mention Sri Lanka and most people envisage beaches, tea and elephants, and have no idea that there are archaeological sites that would compare to those in Greece, Turkey and Egypt.

For nearly 1,800 years the Sinhalese Kings ruled the island of Tamba-panni, which became known as Taprobane, then Serendib, followed by Ceilao, Zeylan, Ceylon and is now Sri Lanka, from the cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa. Pilgrims and visitors, who come to admire and respect, visit the remains of these cities and the surrounding areas. These cities are living pilgrimage sites for not only millions of Buddhists but also people of most religions.

Anuradhapura, city of 113 Kings, was founded circa 500 BC and in 993 when the Chola King Rajaraja I conquered Sri Lanka he burned and looted the city. The capital was moved south to Polonnaruwa and when Vijayabahu I defeated the Cholas he carried out restoration work on the main monuments of Anuradhapura but the capital remained at Polonnaruwa. In 1073 the great city of Anuradhapura was abandoned. Polonnaruwa remained the capital until 1293, when it shifted further south to Kandy.

One of the first things that one cannot help but notice when approaching Anuradhapura is the immensity of the dagobas, also known as dagobas or stupas. A stupa (relic chamber) is a dome, which is built over a sacred relic, usually a bodily remain of the Buddha.

The most impressive monuments are the great stupas, some are of gigantic proportions and considerable antiquity but some have been reconstructed in the course of the centuries. They generally have a triple circular base, and as in early Indian stupas, a hemispherical dome with a miniature railing on top, and a multiple parasol that tends to solidify into a conical structure in the course of time. The material is brick, sometimes covered with plaster and white paint. Important features are the platforms (vahalakaas) at the cardinal points, often adorned with sculpture. There are many stupas at the ancient capital of Anuradhapura, at Polonnaruwa, and at other sites; of these the Jetavana at Anuradhapura is the largest. The Jetavana Dagoba, 3rd century AD, which was then the third tallest building in the world – only two of the Egyptian pyramids were higher. At 122 metres high and with a 113-metre diameter its base covers two and a half acres and its perimeter walls enclose eight acres. It is currently being restored.

Small stupas were often placed in a circular building with a domical metal and timber roof supported by concentric rows of stone pillars. This type of building, known in ancient India as the caityagrha, was very popular in Sri Lanka, though it had disappeared at an early period in the country of its origin. A famous example is the vatadage at Polonnaruwa, a structure of great elegance. The dome itself, being of perishable material has not survived. The geige or large rectangular hall with a corbelled brick vault, houses a Buddha image, was first found in Sri Lanka from the 8th century AD.

In Anuradhapura is Sri Lanka’s most sacred site – the Sacred Bo Tree (Sri Maha Bodhi). This tree was grown from a sapling taken from a Bo tree in Bodhi Gaya, India, where Buddha sat under, meditated and attained enlightenment in 528 BC. It has withstood the ravages of time and war for over 22 centuries and is reputed to be the oldest tree in the world.

The most sacred stupa, Ruwanweliseya also known as Mahathupa, is situated in the Mahavihara (Great Monastery). Work commenced in 144 BC with elephants doing the heavy work. To support its 55-metre high dome, five-metre deep foundations were filled with crushed stones and compressed by elephants whose feet were covered with leather.

Entering the building one passes through the gatehouse and across the sand court to the vahalakaa supporting the stupa. The elephants that decorate the vahalakaa were believed to have supported the stupa the same as people believed the world was upheld by four elephants.

The stupa looms ahead and walking around its base in a clockwise direction (nobody could tell me why clockwise and not anti-clockwise) amongst the worshipping Buddhists and ever-present monkeys one feels an aura of peace.

In the south of the city is the Isurumuniya Rock temple. This modest temple was founded in the 3rd century BC by King Tissma began as a shelter for monks. The ‘Isurumuniya Lovers’ is a sculpture, which according to legend depicts king Duthayamani’s son, Saliya, and a low-caste maiden for whom he gave up the throne. Here there are some marvellous reliefs carved on rocks. One of these depicts elephants at play, and another, a seated man with the head of a horse carved in the background. These fine sculptures recall the South Indian style of the 7th century.

Driving around the ancient city there is much to see; the famous moonstone of the Abhayayiri Monastery, Kuttam Pokuna (twin ponds), the Samadhi Buddha a 4th century AD statue in a meditative pose is acknowledged as a masterpiece.

Sri Lanka is well known for its tea, elephants and beaches; but a visit to the archaeological sites is an educational and wonderful reminder of the days of the Sinhalese Kingdom.

Further Information

Travel tips: It's cheap to get a driver/guide to take you around Sri Lanka

Must see/do at this place: Pinawella Elephant Orphanage, Sigariya, Yala, Kandy

You should avoid here: The Northern areas.