Cruising the Big Mango

Location:
Thailand

Boating

By Christine Stanley

Bangkok by boat offers a perspective of the Big Mango otherwise missed by land — one that’s quieter, calmer, and, most wonderfully, cooler. What’s more? Express boats for commuters are cheap (13 bhat to any stop on the route), so for about 35 cents, you can get from the northern-most point of the city all the way to the Gulf of Thailand.

The Mae Nam (river) Chao Phraya is formed miles above the city by the convergence of four smaller rivers. As such, if one were so inclined, you could see a larger portion of the country without ever getting on a train or bus.

From the backpacker’s hub of Khao San Road, the boat is the closest mode of mass transit (as opposed to the subway or sky train), and is ideal for reaching the sights of Wat Arun, Wat Pho, the Grand Palace and Chinatown without destroying your feet and your energy in the process.

Once cruising, take note of the river’s constant activity. Teeny tug boats pull strands of burdensome barges, fishermen snooze by their lines, children jump from peers, and a variety of pleasure and work boats buzz by. On shore, rickety homes and shanties are licked by the tide, while an occasional mansion sits proudly above the banks on a rarely seen manicured lawn. On the river, it seems, the princes and the paupers mix.

North from the central dock is Ko Kret — a difficult destination to reach , but one that is rewarding for those willing to make the journey. On the cheap, this car-free island can be reached with two or three boat transfers, or , like me, you can do it the easy way by biting the bullet and throwing down 500 bhat ($15) for a personal, speedy, and quite enjoyable round-trip longboat ride.

One hour on Ko Kret is plenty of time to crab a snack and breeze through the island’s modest open-air pottery “studios” (or, dilapidated porches, as I call them). The island is home to the Mon people. Once one of Thailand’s dominant cultures, these folks are highly skilled ceramicists. Unfortunately, due to the mass production of cheap pottery and clay goods, the tradition faded, but on Ko Kret, two families still throw and trade their goods. ko-kret.jpg

The term “terra cotta” inspires very little interest from me, that is until I see the final products. The intricate detail and carving of the bowls, lamps, vases and figurines is impressive and would be worth purchasing ($50 to $100 for a large piece) if you didn’t have to lug it home.

Alternatively, a boat ride 100 km south from the central dock will reward you with the sights and smells of the Damnoen Saduak floating market, (though getting there by sky train would be decidedly quicker).

From sunrise to lunch time the Floating Market is crowded with hundreds of vendors and purchasers giving and taking foods, fruit and vegetable, mostly brought from their own orchards and kitchens. The river crowded, so walk on the passage along the canal can be nice, or take a local boat through the maze for 10 bhat. Those who want to see all the three of the Floating Markets — Ton Khem, Hia Kui and Khun Phithak — can hire a boat for 300 bhat.

Whatever you decide, arrive with an empty stomach and plenty of energy — this place will fill your stomach and your head.

Price Description: Just a few dollars

Relative price: Budget

Travel Skills: None

You Need to Bring: Don't forget your sunscreen!