Poi Sang Long: Amongst the Monks

Location:
Thailand

monks, festivals, Thailand

By dave stamboulis

Poi Sang Long: Amongst the Monks

words and photos by Dave Stamboulis

As I get older, I notice that just being an ordinary tourist does not give me any satisfaction. The lines are long, the admission prices steep, and with so many travelers today following the same path, same guidebook, and same plan, it often feels that the only thing novel I am seeing is the phenomenon of many young people all in travel limbo at the same time.

Thus, I have started going to obscure festivals, both as a way of escaping the beaten path, and of getting to see something precious and unique to the culture I am in. One such festival is that of Poi Sang Long, which takes place in the remote capital of Mae Hong Son in northwestern Thailand. Poi Sang Long celebrates the ordination of young boys as novice monks, and over the course of three days, the small provincial capital near Burma bursts out in show of color, revelry, and tradition.

Most Thai men are ordained as monks at least once in their lives, usually for a short period of time. This continues an age old tradition, keeps the awareness of Buddhism strong, and serves to make ties and merits within the community. In early April, just prior to the Songkran Southeast Asian New Year, many communities have a festival honoring novice monks, where the boys dress in white and are paraded around on the shoulders of friends and relatives.

Yet in Mae Hong Son, the tradition comes from neighboring Burma, from the Shan community, where Poi Sang Long is a revered and colorful spectacle. The boys here wear extremely colorful costumes, paint their faces, and are even carried on ponies throughout the city. The boys are not allowed to have their feet touch the ground for three days, outside of being inside the temples, thus they are carried by family members and helpers, all of whom share in the festivities and celebrations.

At the start of Poi Sang Long, the boys to be initiated are brought to the main Shan Temple in Mae Hong Son, Wat Hua Wiang, where they have their heads shaved. The young boys look very nervous at this point, and like any young kid, most likely have a huge identity and attachment to their hairstyle. Tears flow freely, and some of the boys look like they are in a bit of shock. They are also unused to all the attention they are receiving, with Thai media and family members sticking cameras in their faces, documenting everything.

By the second day, the whole town gets involved in a colorful pageant. The boys are dressed in elaborate costumes and make up, and they begin to parade through the community on the shoulders of others, asking for blessings and merit in their new undertaking. Musicians walk alongside them, beating drums and cymbals, and there is much singing and dancing.

Those with the hardest task are the carriers of the boys, as they are carrying their charges around town at the hottest time of year, with temperatures often exceeding 40 degrees Celsius. Yet in typical fun loving Thai style, they bear their weight by getting drunk, and end up dancing and celebrating more than anyone, much to the joy of the boys, whom by the second afternoon, have realized that this festival is all about them, and have started to enjoy the proceedings immensely.

In the evening, the families of the monks to be host lavish parties in front of their homes, offering food, drink, music, and speeches honoring the boys. Any out of town visitors will be invited and welcomed with open arms to these parties, and of course be asked to sing songs in front of large crowds and make complete fools out of themselves.

On the final day, there is a huge procession through the town, visiting all the major temples, and the dancing and merrymaking is at a feverish pitch. The parade ends up back at the main temple, and the boys go inside to pay homage to the senior monks and to receive their new orange robes, which they change into. The festival then culminates with a grand feast served to all the new monks, whom by now seem unwilling to relinquish their status as temporary superstars.

Come morning, Mae Hong Son is again a sleepy little mountain backwater of 5000 inhabitants, and I am perusing my calendar, looking for more places to make merry off the beaten path.

Further Information

Travel tips: Stop off in Soppong or Pai on the way over the mountains from Chiang Mai. A good way to break up an otherwise long bus journey, and Pai and Soppong have many adventure travel options, from caving to waterfalls to hill tribe visits.

Must see/do at this place: There are hill tribes to visit near Mae Hong Son, as well as lots of natural beauty, but spend every minute at the pulsating festival, as it only happens once a year.

You should avoid here: Not carrying water. The festival occurs at the hottest time of year, temperatures can be over 40 celsius, and the parade goes all over town.