Spy versus Spy: on the trail of Cold War Espionage Istanbul

Location:
Turkey

a tour around the cinematic and real life spy locations of Istanbul

By Steven Cassidy

The Cold War in Istanbul will not remain cold any longer..." Lotte Lenya to Robert Shaw, From Russia WIth Love, 1963 In the years following World War II, Istanbul, along with Lisbon, Cairo and Tangiers, was one of worlds greatest centres of espionage. With its proximity to the countries of the Eastern Bloc and with Soviet oil tankers gliding through the Bosphorus straits - all the worlds intelligence agencies maintained a presence. It was immortalised in the fictitious works of Ian Fleming and Graham Greene - a shadowy world of defectors and traitors, of cafe meetings and dark alleyways. A piece of this world can be glimpsed in 21st century Istanbul. A city that seems to thrive on secrets and conspiracies.

The best place to start is across the 'Golden Horn' in Pera and the 'Pera Palas' hotel. The Palas stands on the summit of a hill in the fashionable quarter of Pera/Galata with expansive views all around. For decades the most exclusive and expensive hotel in the city, accomodating those who rolled off the Orient Express. Agatha Christie wrote her most famous 'whodunnit' at this hotel and her room is still preserved in aspic by the hotel. The hotel was considered neutral ground during World War II with often German, British and Soviet agents watching each other across the famous bar.

The district of Pera was for centuries the abode of foreign merchants and embassies and still has a European and cosmopolitan feel. And its main attraction for visitors and Istanbullus alike is the great pedestrianised shopping boulevard of Istikal Caddesi. Your most memorable experience of Istanbul may be immersing yourself in the great tidal waves of people as they traverse this boulevard. Its also an excellent place to stay. There is a better and cheaper selection of restaurants and hotels then in the tourist scene of Sultanhammet. Granted, you will have to commute to the main sights every morning by crossing the Golden Horn, but I stayed here and enjoyed every minute of it. There is something authentic and Turkish about this hilly district. Old men sell chestnuts from braziers, people sip coffee in cafes, cats stalk in shadows and Turkish music can be heard from windows. The surrounding streets are very atmospheric, and are redolent of 'Old Stamboul' - shadowy alleyways, steep and cobbly streets, hidden workshops and the call of the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer.

James Bond came to Istanbul in 1963 and one of his filming locations was Yerebetan Sarnaci - the underground cistern across 'The Golden Horn in Sultanhammet. It is one of the underground reservoirs built by Justinian to water the city in times of siege and inside a set of stone crumbling steps lead into stygian darkness. You emerge into a cavernous underground room stretching 200m or so. The room is lit by orange light throwing eerie shadows onto column after column. The columns rise out of the water covered floor and reach the ceiling, its quite a sight - there are 336 columns with 4ft of space between them. The flickering light shows off the antiquity of the columns as it resembles light from torches. The orange light only reaches half a column leaving the rest in inky darkness. The whole room looks like something from the "underworld" - as if there is something devilish going on in the shadows.

Before 1987 when it was refurbished the only way to see it was via rowboat but nowadays there are wooden catwalks weaving their way between the columns. Sean Connery's 007 came this way with Turkish ally Kerim Bey and Russian defector Tatiana Romanova in "From Russia With Love". The eeriness was compounded by the constant sound of dripping water. The centuries old ceiling leaked like a sieve with quite large droplets falling from above.There are fish down there in the water. Huge orange goldfish which have probably lived down there for generations. They swim under the catwalks and can be seen nibbling the algae at the base of the columns.

The Bosphorus had an important role to play in the role of espionage. It was here in the middle of the straits in 1945 that double agent Kim Philby flew out to assist the Soviet defector Constantine Volkov. Although the Russians whisked back Volkov before Philby could persuade him to defect; you can take a trip on the Bosphorus for some of the most sublime views of Istanbul. Emininou is the embarkation point and a transport terminus with bus and tram stops and a busy taxi rank. From here you can cross the Bosphorus to Uskudar, Scutari and Kabatas which is close to the Dolmabache Palace.

I opted for a morning jaunt to Uskudar on a creaking rusting ferry. I rather like Bosphorus ferries - they really do look like they need a dab of paint which is rather endearing and the whole journey cost less then 1.5 Turkish lira. As you pull away and into mid channel both sides of the 'Golden Horn' come into sight. The Sultanhammet side was just an ants nest broke by minarets of the mosques and the woods of the Topkapi palace. And then thirty minutes later you are docking at Uskudar. There is nothing to say you have reached Asia, no plaque or sign. Uskudar is too busy being a transport terminal with rushing crowds, choking buses and communal ramadan restaurants. There is a sea walk heading south from the terminal with pleasant views across the water to Europe. The Dolmabache Palace looked particularly spectacular from this side of the Bosphorus. But you can get as far as Leanders Tower which stands on a tiny island out in the Bosphorus.

And you think the Cold War is over?. Last year the Iranian nuclear physicist, Ali Reza, disappeared while staying in an Istanbul hotel room. He completely vanished off the face of the earth. An espionage kidnapping or a simple defection? The game of espionage still goes on in Istanbul.

Further Information

Travel tips: Changing travellers cheques is getting harder and harder in Istanbul. The bureau de changes down Istkikal Caddesi often dont want to know. The best way of obtaining money seems to be cashpoints. Although there are moneychangers down Divan Yolu who will oblige.

Must see/do at this place: The whole city is one of the wonders of the world - just bask in the atmosphere. The big attractions are worth all the hype and Topkapi is one of the best palaces in the world. But explore the backstreets they are full of individual shops and galleries

You should avoid here: The carpet sellars around Sultanhammet are not half as agressive as in some countries. One even said to me "Is it worht me talking to you if you dont want carpet?" which I thought was rather charming. 'The Pudding Shop' is beloved of tour groups with average food and a famous reputation.