Getting to the pyramids is easy enough, even on public transport. There are departures every 15 minutes or so from the Terminal del Norte (Sala 8, left hand side of the terminal) for $3 or so.

Alternatively, take line 3 of the metro to Indios Verdes in the north of the city. The large bus station attached to the terminal is chaotic, but dont panic- walk to platform J, the last platform on the west side of the road (the mountains are north) and get a bus that says Teotihuacan or Piramides for $2.

To get back, wait at Puerta 1 or 4 at the pyramids site, bearing in mind the last buses leave around 6 p.m. and the days of hiding out and sleeping at the pyramids are long gone. You can also take an organized tour, which can be done with most hotels and hostels. Prices vary, as the classier tours will include lunch and visits to nearby sites such as Chiconcuac market or the Basilica de Guadalupe.

Sites within the city such as the Basilica are best off done independently as they’re not difficult to get to, but if you’re interested in the towns around the pyramids a tour is your best bet, although double check exactly what’s offered as many stop a factories for “shopping.” Tours are typically from $10-40.