Tula de Allende is a bustling modern city about an hour north of the capital, in the state of Hidalgo. Its main claim to fame is the Toltec archaeological site two kilometers north of the city center, a vast site crowned by a towering pyramid upon which stand giants five meters tall known as the Atlantes.

Set 2,020 meters (1.25 mi) above sea level, this city of 100,000 inhabitants is quietly prosperous, benefiting from its proximity to the capital and famous ruins. There’s not a whole lot going on, but it’s pleasant enough to wander around for the day and the friendly locals are eager to help with directions, etc.

Like all Mexican cities, the zócalo is the beating heart of the city and the best place to come for lunch. The Plaza de la Constitución has relaxing cafés where you can get good breakfast deals, coffee and cake and overlook the gardens in the middle of the square.

Afterwards you can go to the corner of the square with Zaragoza and have a look at the Sala Histórica Quetzalcoatl, a small museum with interesting temporary displays of modern art downstairs and various mammoth tusks, pottery and Toltec carvings upstairs (free, open Tuesday-Sunday 9 a.m- 5 p.m.). Opposite is the castle-like 16th century cathedral.

If you want to stay, there are a couple of hotels around the zócalo and towards the bus station. Budget travelers may hit a snag here though as most places in town cater to Mexican businessmen and rooms for less than $50 are rare.