Population- 82,964

2,146 meters (7,040 feet) above sea level

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Located just eight kilometers west of Puebla, Cholula has more or less been swallowed up by its neighbour´s gradually expanding industrial outskirts and is now considered little more than a suburb. Still, the relaxing pace of life, lively nightlife scene and ruins make this small city a pleasant stop for a couple of days.

The name “Cholula” means “water that falls in the place of flight” in Náhuatl, a reference to the arrival in the valley of groups of Toltecs, who were expelled from their native Tula around 1000 AC. The city flourished and became one of pre-Hispanic America´s greatest ceremonial centers, honoring the feathered serpent god, Quetzalcoatl and rain god Tlaloc. A plan to ambush the approaching Spanish in 1519 severely backfired; the plan was uncovered by the invaders who razed the city to the ground. Cortés subsequently declared he would build a church for every day of the year atop the ruined shrines.

Modern Cholula seems to be home to more bars than churches, thanks to some 8000 local students, among them a large foreign contingent. Formally Cholula consists of two municipalities: San Pedro Cholula, which includes the 16th century Portales on the zócalo, Convento de San Gabriel, and Capilla Real; and San Andres Cholula, which is located further east and has its own smaller zócalo as well as being home to the Universidad de las Americas and most of the nightlife. The Great Pyramid, the world´s biggest (by volume anyway) and Archeological Site bisect the two municipalities. The nearby Site Museum is definitely worth a visit too, particularly if you don´t fancy hiring one of the several guides who hang around touting their services.

Several restaurants surround the zócalos en San Pedro and San Andres Cholula. The trendy cafés and bars along 14 Oriente in San Andres are always packed with students on 12-hour study breaks and are a great place to hang out, whether you head there in the afternoon or in the wee hours.

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