In the 1930s and 1940s, wealthy families relocating from the Centro Histórico shored up the Condesa neighborhood with magnificent Art Deco mansions. Today, this peaceful, park-like residential neighborhood west of Avenida Insurgentes and south of the Zona Rosa is still known for its yuppie atmosphere and Art Deco structures, but most people come here for the trendy restaurant and bar scene at the crossroads of Avenida Tamaulipas and Avenida Michoacán.

Of the scores of eating and drinking establishments, right next to one another, you can take your pick of cuisines: sushi, vegetarian, barbecue, French, Mexican, Argentine, Chinese, you name it. The area is perhaps not as posh as the Polanco district, but the people here still practice conspicuous consumption of expensive chow when dining curbside. Most of the restaurants have sidewalk seating. You'll see lots of designer clothing, valet parking, high heels, careful makeup, and men in nice suits smoking fat cigars.

If you get tired of eating and drinking, you can also visit the area's many upscale antiques shops, esthetic salons and upmarket grocery stores. Or, if you just want to indulge in non-commercial greenery, head to nearby Parque México and Parque España. One of the recommended must-see Art Deco buildings is just northeast of the Parque México, the 1940s Edificio Basurto, located at Av. México 187.

Also of note: The elliptical shapes of Condesa's Avenida Amsterdam and Avenida México that reflect the land's former use as a horsetrack. Before development as a residential neighborhood in the early 20th century, however, the land belonged to the Condesa (countess) de Miravalle, hence the district's name: Condesa.

Web site:www.coloniacondesa.com.mx

Directions: The nearest metro stops are Chipancingo and Patriotismo. You can also take the buses that roll along Avenida Insurgentes and get off at any of these stops: Sonora, Campeche or Chilpancingo.

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