Estelí

By Lorraine Caputo

A jungle, dense with vegetation and animals, wraps around the public library. In a playground, youth defend their nations. On the next corner, ancient to modern-day Nicaraguans confront an eagle clawing Planet Earth. In the hospital the popular history of this country is proudly on display. A few blocks away is the Little Prince.

These are the images of only a few of the over 150 murals that decorate Estelí in northern Nicaragua. For that reason, it was declared “The City of Murals” in 2003.

During the Sandinista Revolution (1979-1990), mural workshops flourished throughout this country. Today, only in Estelí do they survive, preserving the originals and painting new images. Two talleres, or workshops, are still active: one at the Casa de Cultura and the other at Funarte, working with hundreds of children and women.

Modern-day Estelí was founded at the end of the 16th century. During the Insurrection (1978-1979), this was an important center of fighting. Then-dictator Anastasio Somoza Debayle heavily bombed the city (in one case, a dud bomb has become a monument). El Carmen Cemetery, west of the city, is exclusively full of those civilians killed during the April 1979 uprising. The Estelí region witnessed extensive damage by the U.S.-backed Contras during the 1980s. The municipal graveyard is full of the tombs of these victims.

To learn about this history, visit the Galería de Héroes y Mártires, run by the mothers of these individuals, and El Café del Poeta, operated by María de los Ángeles Rugama, sister of the poet Leonel Rugama.

Estelí is home to many cooperatives and organizations. Some—including Funarte, the Casa de Mujer and Miraflor—welcome volunteers. This is also a center for the study of not only Spanish, but also medicinal herbs. Good cigars are rolled here, and the factories may be toured.

The patron saint days are June 24 to 26, the feast of John the Baptist. During the nights’ wee hours, horsemen kick a head through the deserted streets. Another important festival is La Purísima, celebrated with nine days of processions, culminating December 7th.

In the hills surrounding Estelí are a number of attractions. To the south, Estanzuela waterfall cascades into a refreshing pool. To the north are several artisan villages, such as San Juan de Limay, where the locals carve marble, and Ducuale Grande, where pottery is skillfully crafted. To the northeast is the organic coffee cooperative and cloud forest reserve Miraflor, whose main offices are in Estelí.

All these wonders of nature, as well as the history and dreams of Nicaragua, come to life in the discussions of the people of Estelí, and in the dozens of murals that decorate this northern Nicaraguan city.