Known as “la ville rose”, or the pink city, for its ancient brick buildings which glow warmly in the sunset, Toulouse is a charming city in the south-west of France. It is the fourth largest in the country, home to the national aeronautics industry, a huge university campus and a booming high-tech industry, yet it is hardly a sprawling metropolis. The downtown area between the Garonne river and the Canal du Midi, where most historic sites are concentrated, is particularly pedestrian-friendly. With a history dating back to the Romans and earlier, a vibrant musical culture and a rich gastronomy, there is something for everyone.

A walk through the narrow winding streets of the center will take in such famous landmarks as the Capitole, which is the city hall dating back to the 12^th century, the basilica of Saint-Sernin, which is the finest example of Romanesque architecture in the South-West, the Canal du Midi, the tree-lined canal dug in the 17^th century to link the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. The Cité de l’Espace, a new museum devoted to the space industry, and Les Abattoirs, a former slaughterhouse converted into a contemporary art gallery, showcase the modern face of Toulouse.

There are restaurants tucked in just about every street downtown, but one of the best to sample local specialties like the local sweet and sour duck magret or goose-and-beans cassoulet, washed down with one of the many local red wines, is along the Garonne river, in and around rue des Blanchers.

Although Toulouse long remained without a youth hostel, HI finally opened again in Jolimont (behind the train station), providing true budget accommodation. There are plenty of mid-range hotels in the center, and some of the soulless chain type towards the highway, but also some fancier hotels overlooking the sights, if you are willing to put $80 and up in a hotel room.