Captivating Crete

Location:
Greece

History, Scenery & Charm

By Peter Anderson

Crete lies on the crossroads of three ancient continents; Africa, Europe and Asia and has inherited something from each of them. This is what makes Crete unique in as much as it has a cosmopolitan air but the people are traditional and perhaps reserved. But they are happy, enjoy their livelihood and welcome strangers with genuine affability. It has thousands of years of history, medieval towns, traditional mountain villages and diverse vegetation and scenery. Deep gorges, desolate mountains over 2,400 metres high, fertile valleys, secluded coves and sandy beaches washed by clear sapphire and aquamarine waters make Crete an exceptional island.

There is so much to see in Crete so we planned and a seven-day stay should be the minimum. One cannot see everything in seven days so select what interests you and plan accordingly.

Driving through the mountains of Crete is like being in a huge rock garden. Numerous flowers and shrubs abound in some areas yet struggle in the harsh climate in other areas. The mountain air is clear and the only sounds you will hear are the rustling of the leaves in the trees and the occasional bleating of the goats and sheep. As one drives through Kourtaliotis Gorge with its high walls that at some places almost appear to be touching. The two-kilometre drive through this gorge with its wild, unspoiled scenery and stream is the beginning of our mountain adventure.

As you wended your way slowly towards Anogia, a small mountain village, you will pass typical Cretan shepherds on their donkeys. Sitting sidesaddle on their wooden saddles with their long stick trailing alongside they look as though he had ridden from the past. Stop your car and indicate that you want to take a photograph and you will most likely be welcomed with a smile.

Wandering around the market with the smell of fresh herbs and spices in the early morning air is a pleasant introduction to Réthymnon. Fresh fruit and vegetables, honey, feta cheeses and special Cretan herbal tea were a few of the items available on market day, every Thursday. Set up in the centre of town in a public car park. Réthymnon has a typical Venetian harbour, high walls and a lighthouse at the narrow entrance. The old shops and restaurants come right down to the harbour edge and walking around the area and along the narrow cobbled streets is an interesting experience.

Chaniá, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, its Venetian harbour lined with restaurants is a perfect lunch stop. The private yachts heading out to sea, fishermen mending their nets and the locals fishing for their dinner are pleasant interludes while enjoying a meal in the harbour.

Close to Chaniá is the St. Trinity Giagarolo monastery, built in 1612. Arrive just before sunset as the sun’s rays turn the yellow walls orange. Jeremiah and Lavrentio Giagarolo two wealthy brothers, who left the nearby Aghios Ioannis monastery after a dispute, built this imposing structure. The plans were very ambitious and in 1645 the monastery was still not completed when the Ottoman Turks arrived. The Turks burnt many of the monasteries in Crete but Giagarolo was spared. However they were not allowed to put the dome on top. It was not until 1834 that the Turks finally relented and allowed the dome to be built.

Knossós the centre of Europe’s first civilisation is over 3,500 years old. Legend has it that Knossós was the labyrinth of King Minos where he imprisoned the Minotaur, the half-human half-bovine child of his wife Pasiphae. In reality, the 1,300-room palace was more likely an administrative centre. The palace covered 22,000 square metres, was six storeys high and was decorated with elaborate murals. Although much of the palace is in ruins one can see the chambers, amphitheatre and stairways. For a 3,500-year-old structure the frescos are in excellent order and Knossós is one of the more interesting archaeological sites worldwide. It is amazing that one can walk on and admire a site that was inhabited 350 centuries ago.

Some of the other places worth visiting are the mountain villages of Likotinaria and Vistagi, the seaside and fishing villages of Plakias and Aghios Galini, the fertile Mares Valley, the towns of Iearapetra, Iráklio and Agios Nikolaos and the Arkadia and Preveli monasteries.

One needs a car to fully experience Crete, and although Greece has one of the highest accident rates in Europe the roads are in good condition and uncrowded, if one travels off-season. The icons on the side of the road are memorials for those who were killed in motor accidents. These small iron or stone boxes on stands with a cross on top contain photographs and objects of the deceased and candles or oil lamps are lit inside.

Crete has 50 olive trees for every Cretan. Vineyards and olive groves abound throughout the island. Olives are a winter crop and are harvested from November. The best olives are the ones that are collected as soon as they fall. The ground around the olive trees is covered with nets to collect the olives that fall. For the best virgin olive oil the branches of the trees are shaken and the olives collected immediately. Some of the trees are over a hundred years old.

Olives, feta cheese, mountain greens as a salad with a dressing of olive oil and vinegar are never missing from the Cretan table. Rabbit stifado (stew) or dakos (barley rusk soaked in olive oil and topped with tomato, olives and feta cheese) is a local favourite. Other local dishes include cochlioi boubouristi (snails simmered and fried in vinegar and rosemary), barbequed ofto (meat), Cretan style, the meat, sheep not lamb, is tender, succulent and tasty, mousaka, dolmàdhes (stuffed vine leaves), souviàki (skewered meat with tomatoes and onions), chtapòdhi sta kàrvouna (charcoaled octopus), calamari and baklavà (thin layered pastry with walnuts and syrup). Cretan wine, white, red and rosé is inexpensive and the top labels are good. Ouzo is the well-known Greek apéritif and raki a strong drink brewed from mulberries is popular with the locals.

There is so much to see and do in Crete, which cannot be covered in this article. Scuba diving, listening to Cretan music and watching dances, centuries old festivals, speleology and bird watching a few of the pastimes that one can enjoy.

Crete is the perfect holiday haven, amicable and accommodating locals, good food and wine, diverse scenery, interesting historical sites, magnificent beaches with clear azure and sapphire waters, all at a reasonable price and above all a photographer’s paradise.

Further Information

Other helpful information: One needs at least 7 days. To fully see Crete allow for 14 days

Must see/do at this place: Knossos is a must visit place. Try the local food, its superb.