A glimpse of Paradise. Part I

Location:
Italy

Hiking, Beach, Food

By Mark Lopez

When I purchased my tickets for Italy the second time around, I was admittedly less than thrilled. After all, not only was I visiting Italy for the second time, but by some unlikely twist of fate I was visiting the exact same city I had visited before, Florence. Now I’m sure plenty of people can find many reasons to visit that particular city time and time again, but for someone like me, for whom time is precious, a trip to a place I’ve visited before only means one less chance to explore the rest of the world. So when I gathered up my meager savings to visit Nicole, my girlfriend who at the time was studying abroad in Florence, the small part of me that was less than thrilled to be going to Italy was kicking myself for not having convinced her to study in France instead. Little did I know the surprise she had in store for me. Known as “Cinque Terre,” or The Five Lands, she had put together an excursion to a fishing community that would change my perception of Italy forever.

Our trip started out thornier than I would have liked. Of the less appealing aspects to antiquated beauty is an equally outdated system of public transportation. While Italy might be able to take you just about anywhere on a train, it doesn’t quite guarantee a comfortable ride. Take the first leg of our trip. Cramped tightly between two carts, we spent a good part of our time shuffling around our luggage in a pitiful attempt to make some seating where there was none. And with nothing more than a public restroom for a view, when we finally did manage an agreeable arrangement there was little in the way of gratification. To be fair, we did at least learn two important lessons. Firstly, we’re spoiled commuters. Despite our whining, the other passengers seemed perfectly content with sitting on a grimy floor in a tight space full of body odor. And secondly, that yes, if you’ve ever wondered, cell phone use is as widespread – and annoying – abroad as it is in the US.

Fortunately, after an hour or so of this we connected to a different train. Almost instantly the trip began bearing fruit. Not only did we have seating, but we could finally enjoy the view of Italy’s beautiful countryside as it passed us by. Short-lived as this was, before long we were treated with something even better. Riding along the coast and through mountains no less, we caught intermittent glimpses of the Gulf of Genoa and the villages we’d soon visit. It was a small taste of what was to come.

At last we arrived at Monterosso, the first of five villages that we’d explore in the next couple of days. We jumped off the train and headed straight for a map conveniently located just outside the station. It was mid-October, yet I could still feel the inviting warmth of summer sunshine at my back. The leisurely stroll to our hotel was a welcome feast for the senses. Flanked on two sides by a pair of lush mountains, the town of Monterosso was a charming mix of beaches, restaurants and villas. Although it had its fair share of souvenir shops, unlike many of the beaches I’ve visited, they neither came off as tacky nor exploitive. Everything just belonged. From the winds that carried a cool ocean breeze to the sounds of congenial conversation that filled the air. We were in Mediterranean bliss.

As soon as we settled in our hotel, a wonderful little nook located between several enchanting lemon gardens, we got a leg up on our ambitious itinerary. Our first mission: finding a restaurant. Easily my favorite part of traveling, we enthusiastically prowled the town in search of a place to eat. Since most of the restaurants – if not all – had outside dining, a brisk walk quickly gave us a sneak peak at the local fare. We couldn’t have been more excited. One of Italy’s only true fishing villages, Cinque Terra is known for its exceptional seaside dining. Since all the restaurants looked delicious, we ultimately based our decision on which could give us the best service. A wise decision, if I might add. We were seated immediately.

Mussels marina comprised our first foray into Mediterranean cuisine. What the dish lacked in originality it more than compensated for with flavor and value. For less than twelve euros we were served a bucket of garlic marinated mussels that had the uncanny ability of never ending. Not that we minded. In fact, when we eventually did finish the mountain of mussels it was all we could do from ordering another one. It was only when the entrees came out that we appreciated our moderation.

Nicole ordered trophie with pesto, a unique ribbon shaped pasta served with a locally produced sauce that looked every bit as delicious as it ultimately tasted. The fresh herbs in the pesto gave it a wonderfully vibrant color that was further accentuated by the golden yellow of the locally grown olive oil. The scent was strong but not overwhelming, and the flavor was infused with the saintly taste of roasted pine nuts and garlic over perfectly cooked pasta. My taste buds get excited just thinking about it.

While not quite as robust in flavor, my dish got points for its sheer adventurousness. Traditional pasta topped with a sampling of what seemed like everything the sea had to offer – from fish to unidentifiable crustaceans – it combined to make an exquisite treat for a seafood lover like myself. When our meal was over, we topped it off with a delectable sampling of Limoncello, a deliciously aromatic local liquor grown from lemons. It wasn’t my girlfriend’s favorite drink, but I rather enjoyed its refreshing sweetness. When we ended the night, we privately hoped the rest of the trip would fare as well as our first evening. Little did we expect that it would surpass it.

Further Information

Travel tips: Make sure to bring suitable hiking apparel.

Must see/do at this place: Take the trek from Monterosso to Riomaggiore.

You should avoid here: The summer months, as tourism may be uncomfortably high.