A Glimpse of Paradise, Part II

Location:
Italy

Hiking, Beach, Food

By Mark Lopez

We awoke the next morning before the break of dawn. Nicole had read about a long path that stretched alongside the remaining four villages, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore, respectively, and if we wanted to complete the trek by the end of the day we needed an early start. We packed our belongings – a small backpack full of snacks and water – and sought out a quick breakfast. Much of Monterosso was still asleep, but we managed to find at least one bakery where we could enjoy a rejuvenating cappuccino and a tasty pastry for the extra boost. As we headed for the trails, a different side of the village opened itself up to us. Unable to appreciate it the night before, we took the opportunity to really admire the town’s haunting architecture. Built around a towering church, its numerous flats possessed a timelessness that reminded us that long before it was invaded by tourists, the villages of Cinque Terre were fighting off Vikings and pirates alike. Hoping we were the lesser of the three evils, we ambitiously started on our hike.

Never in my life has arduous labor been so properly rewarded as it was that day. The trail began with what at times felt like a vertical climb up several extensively cultivated hills. Although there were steps to ease our passage, the sheer number of them still came as a shock to our gas-pedal pushing travel weary legs. Difficulty notwithstanding, the trail itself was consistently breathtaking. Colorful citrus groves dotted the hills, hand crafted stone walls lined endless vineyards, and whenever we reached another summit, we could see the Mediterranean sea stretched out before us, its aquamarine color lapping the edges of any one of the five captivating villages. The effect was surreal. The entire time I was keenly aware that I was walking through what would come to be one of my favorite memories, and I cherished every single moment.

As we pushed our way through one sprawling vista after another, we eventually came across a nondescript sign buried in shrubbery that read ‘Spiaggia nudista.’ Italian for nude beach, Nicole and I gave each other one look and decided on the spot that we would take the diversion. Little did we know how incredibly difficult the steep path to the beach would be. We were forced to cling to trees for support much of the way, and at intervals where the path vanished we had to leap over precarious chasms just to keep moving forward. More than once we considered turning back, but the further along we went the more invested we were in our efforts and the less we were willing to give that all up. When at last we reached the path’s end, we found ourselves at the foot of an abandoned train tunnel. Etched into the side of a mountain, I ventured into the cavernous opening with a fair share of apprehension. Who knew what awaited me inside the shadows. But a short walk revealed an archway from which I saw the elusive beach. A pebble strewn strip of coast that slipped right into the water, it was populated with nude sunbathers who reveled in the sunshine. Nicole and I rushed to join them.

Our relaxing detour lasted several hours, after which we reluctantly made our way back up the hills to continue our trek. We stopped in each town we visited, enamored with the harmonious way in which each village seemed to be carved out of the earth. By the time we finished our journey, the sun was setting and we were given a picture perfect ending to an incredible day in Italy. Although much of the trip to this day still feels like a dream, the villages of Cinque Terre are not completely out of reach from the rest of the world. My experience is part of a global trend of tourism that is discovering a historic way of life that has survived modernism and the age of the automobile (there are no cars permitted in all but one of the towns). And even there, the politics of the world have made there mark. Along one of the paths we noticed graffiti that told us ‘yanks’ to get the hell out of Italy. Disappointing as this was to see, it still didn’t affect our otherwise wonderful experience.

Besides citrus, grapes, and olives, there is another native fruit that grows along the winding paths of Cinque Terre. Known as Opuntia, or more colloquially as ‘cactus fruit,’ we kept seeing evidence of its inhabitance splattered all over the ground. When I finally realized what it was, I somehow talked my girlfriend into letting me pick one from a cactus so that we could sample the bright purple colored fruit for ourselves. Though delicious, we both ended up with a fair amount of cactus needles on our tongues and hands, and Nicole gave me a fair verbal lashing to boot. Our trip was not unlike the cactus fruit. Here and there we came across minor thorns – from the substandard public transportation to the anti-American sentiment – but over all the trip was well worth the effort. If it’s a natural paradise you seek, look no further than the five lands of Cinque Terre.

Further Information

Other helpful information: Pack proper hiking attire!

Must see/do at this place: Hike every path you can. Every site is worth seeing.

You should avoid here: Avoid the summer months when tourism is at its highest.