In the westernmost province of Cuba lies a verdant mountainscape called Piñar del Río.  Though close to the capital, the “Green Province” seems far away from Havana’s hustle and bustle. Tranquility and scenery abound here, as does that most Cuban of products: tobacco. Piñar del Río holds special acclaim for its fertile valleys that yield a richly aromatic tobacco used to produce the renowned “Habanos” or “puros,” as the Cubans call their cigars. The area consists of fertile farmland, tropical forest and odd, gumdrop-shaped mountains and hills called “magotes.” The landscape is strikingly reminiscent of Halong Bay, Vietnam or the hill country of Southeast Asia. UNESCO also found the region enchanting enough to classify the Viñales Valley a World Cultural and Landscape site in 1999.

Two mountain ranges crisscross the province, and include Pan de Guajaibón, Cuba’s highest western peak. Geologists claim that the ancient rocks found here were among the first on the island to crest through the waters of the Caribbean back in the Jurassic period. This is evidenced by a 270 million year old fossil, as well as deeply eroded notches between magotes and an intricate network of caves. The Santo Tomás cavern, one of the largest in the world, tunnels down some 45 kilometers. Other famous caves include Indian Cave and Cueva de los Portales, where Ché Guevara sought refuge during the 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis. In the Sierra del Rosario Mountains, you can hike to the Soroa Lookout Point, and the “Rainbow Waterfall,” a 22-meter (over 60 feet) high, spring-fed cascade. Soroa has been declared a National Biosphere Reserve due to its natural riches, including Cuba’s largest orchid garden, over 800 types of plants and 73 different types of birds, several of which are endemic to Cuba. Hikers can also soak in the medicinal waters of the Manantiales or San Juan rivers, and visit the ruins of old coffee plantations.  

While most visitors come for the sleepy, pastoral countryside, the city of Piñar del Río is also a worthwhile stop. If nothing else, one should stop by the Guach Palace, considered to be the strangest building in Cuba. The palace was built in the ornate style of early 20th century Catalonian modernism, and today houses the Museum of Natural Science.

Even those who are not cigar connoisseurs appreciate a fascinating visit to a cigar factory. Row after row of skilled “rollers” demonstrate their tactile talents, cutting and rolling leaves of aromatic tobacco. Rollers must reach a certain quota without compromising quality. All the while, radio “novelas,” or soap operas, play for their entertainment. Another unique and hedonistic stop is a distillery for Guayabita, a tasty local guava liqueur and rum. During a tour, visitors are educated about the distilling process and treated to free samples. Exercise caution here, especially if returning to the road! In fact, why not just spend another night in one of the fine old haciendas, enjoying Cuba’s tranquil side.