Culebra, Puerto Rico

Culebra. Photo by Rona Gilbert.

A mere seven miles long and three miles wide, the sleepy island of Culebra is a feast for the eyes, with rolling hills and some of Puerto Rico’s best beaches. Just 25 miles east of the mainland, Culebra seems a million miles away from San Juan’s hustle and bustle and cruise ship mania, yet few tourists venture to the island. That’s unfortunate, because Culebra offers some of the best opportunities to explore Puerto Rico’s rich culture and dramatic natural wonders.

Culebra’s first inhabitants were a peaceful indigenous tribe known as the Tanos who prospered by farming the area’s rich hills and valleys. Their way of life changed rapidly and drastically when the U.S. acquired the island in 1898 after the Spanish-American war. Within three years, the U.S. military had established a firing range on the island and began military exercises, relocating the residents to other parts of the island. After 70 years of bombing, the fed-up islanders staged a series of protests and the U.S. military operations were moved to nearby Vieques.

Today, approximately 2,000 islanders live year-round on Culebra, mostly in and around Dewey, the island’s only town. The picturesque island bears few scars from its days as a bombing range. Visitors now find Culebra a tranquil and friendly island, offering rare and unique flora, marine animals, wildlife and birds. About 40 percent of the tiny island is dedicated as national reserve parkland, including many of the beaches. Bays, peninsulas and cays surround dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches and mangrove forests, while Mount Resaca, the island’s tallest point, dominates the middle from an elevation of 650 feet.

Culebra’s main attractions are a dozen picture-perfect beaches that ring the island, most with long stretches of soft white sand, few (if any) crowds and clear, calm, turquoise water. Playa Flamenco, the most popular and most scenic, is the only beach with restrooms, chair and umbrella rental, along with the only development you’ll spot on any of Culebra’s beaches: Coconuts, a cozy, laid-back beach bar serving yummy mango daiquiris and heaping plates of fresh grilled shrimp. The locals are a great source of information about where to find some of the island’s most secluded beaches, many of which are only accessible via a dirt road, path or trail. And with year-round temperatures ranging from 70 to 80 degrees, there’s no bad time to explore the beaches.

Travelers to Culebra won’t find chain hotels, restaurants or crowds. Accommodations are primarily in inexpensive guesthouses and a variety of lively restaurants serve affordable but tasty fresh seafood and other local delights. Daytime activities include diving, snorkeling and other water activities or browsing a handful of boutiques selling locally made artwork and jewelry, colorful sarongs and tropical knick-knacks. While there’s no real nightlife, several watering holes offer up a lively bar scene.

From San Juan’s tourist strip to military exercises on Culebra, America has left its footprint on Puerto Rico. However, the diminutive Culebra offers a glimpse into authentic Puerto Rican culture and its natural riches.