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I’ve never been a huge fan of public nudity. But something about Vieques’ sun-splashed, secluded Navio Beach moves you in a way no deck of cards and after-hours frat party ever could. You’re not actually allowed to get naked at any of Vieques’ beaches, but if you arrive at the right beach at the right time, it’s still possible to claim a solitary afternoon that will make you feel you’ve arrived at your own little island enclave. And you just might be tempted to strip.
Anyone with so much as one adventurous pinky knuckle should spend an afternoon four-wheeling to any of the island’s unspoiled beaches. Navio beach, pictured here, served as one of the locations used in the 1963 version of Lord of the Flies. On the left side of the beach, the surf has carved into the rocky border a complimentary private cavern that you can duck into and feel the sudsy water wash over your body.
Since the U.S. military vacated here in 2003, tourists are now able to access Red Beach, Blue Beach and Green Beach, which comprise, with a few other formerly off-limits beaches, one of the most important wildlife refuges in the Caribbean. All of these beaches are still amazingly undeveloped. Even if you see a lifeguard chair, there will rarely be anyone sitting in it. Many of these beaches are only accessible via dirt “road,” with a rented four wheel drive vehicle. But even if you get behind the wheel of a monster truck, go slow on the blighted terrain, or you might find yourself sipping rum runners while stationed on a plastic donut in the evening.
Vieques is a 21-mile-long island just a few miles off the coast of Puerto Rico. The laid-back vibe here is catching on; think eco-traveler rather than party animal. There are two main towns: Esperanza and Isabel Segunda, the latter of which serves as the port and empties out ferries-full of travelers and residents returning from the main island. Esperanza boasts a low-key main drag of restaurants, shops, and hotels. For travelers seeking luxury accommodation, the Inn On The Blue Horizon is a good bet. Budget travelers will have a great time at Banana’s. And as long as you’ve already gone through the trouble of getting to the tiny island, don’t forget to visit the bioluminescent Mosquito Bay, one of the few places in the world where you can bathe in a Tinkerbell-like glimmer that follows your every move.
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