Ruta Nacional 149 sinuously journeys southward through Valle de Calingasta, paralleling RÃo de los Patos. This valley lies between the crumpled, polychrome Sierra del Tontal and the snow-streaked, ragged Andes. Fields of aromatic herbs and family vineyards carpet the hollow. The tranquil oasis villages Calingasta and Barreal are good points to explore the landscape on foot or horseback, searching for ancient paintings and abandoned mines. In the southern part of the clear-skied valley are Pampa El Leoncito, where kite buggies catch the powerful winds, and Parque Nacional El Leonicito, home of two astronomical observatories.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...
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