Skiing's Soul Found in New Zealand

Location:
New Zealand

skiing, south island, ski club, temple basin

By Matt Chandler

The unmistakable sound of crampons on ice slowly echoed through the early morning fog ahead. It was early, not headlamp early, but early enough that the bright, down-under; no-ozone sun had not broken through the thick layer of cloud and fog that seems to collect in these valleys every night. A chill still stung the air, and we remained adorned in all of our layers, ready to survive the widely variable temperatures that are characteristic of New Zealand’s Southern Alps. Ahead of us, beyond the cloaked figures of a father-son climbing duo, was a trail that rose several hundred meters in less than two kilometers. And the best part was; this was only the bottom of the ski area.

Two nights before this, spurred by an impending snowstorm, we decided to drive our barely functioning Subaru wagon, affectionately known as Humphrey, seven and a half hours north from Dunedin to the mountainous region of the South Island known as the Southern Alps. Tucked in tiny Arthur’s Pass about an hour and a half west of Christchurch on State Highway 47, are a number of small, club-run ski fields. One of the most out of the way and most unique is Temple Basin. Two different clubs, the Temple Basin Ski Club and the Canterbury University Snowsports Club run Temple Basin. The area consists of four basins for skiing and at the base, two modern lodges, offering bunk-style accommodations for up to 120 people. Temple Basin offers an “inbound backcountry” policy, meaning if you see it, you can ski it. For around NZ$ 65, one gets use of the rope tows, three meals, and accommodation. In return for the low price, guests are encouraged to join the staff of the area in activities such as cooking, cleaning, and shoveling. Compared to U.S. resort style skiing, not only is this a hell of a bargain, but it produces a more organic and old-fashioned skiing experience. While the mountain does offer gear for hire, it would be advisable to bring your own.

Interesting places tend to attract a very eclectic mix of people and Temple Basin does nothing but confirm this fact. As we reached what we thought was the end of the hike up to the lodge we passed a friendly Kiwi in his twenties, who as it turns out would be one of our hosts at the lodge. After a quick exchange of pleasantries, like a shot, he disappeared down the trail and into the valley. We sat and rested, marveling at the prospect he went up and down this trail several times daily in order to run the goods lift. While hiking above three thousand meters is tiring, the only thing that would make it worse would be to carry the heavy load of clothes, ski equipment and the requisite amount of beer up the trail with you. Thus, the quick-thinkers of Temple Basin have installed a lift meant solely for “goods.” Consisting of a basket strung under a cable that resembles a relic from a thirties European ski resort, this “lift” carries skis, food, clothes, and all other materials from the base of the valley, high above to the lodge at the bottom of the ski area.

Upon entering the lodge, we were immediately greeted by several people in towels and other various states of dress/undress as they made their way to the showers on the first floor of the lodge. The intimacy and familiarity of the place is striking, portraying the family and communal atmosphere that pervades small outfits such as this. After grabbing some coffee and catching our breath, one of the staff members greeted us and let us know that they would probably start the tow soon. After asking whether or not we should pay up front, she smiled, telling us that she would catch up with us later.

After catching the first tow up, we were greeted by Temple Basin’s ski patroller. A nice Canadian guy in his twenties, the patroller handed me a shovel and told me that if we wanted to ski it we should join the other thirty skiers and snowboarders digging a trail out of new snow to the back basin. Soon I was shirtless in the hot alpine sun shoveling snow in an attempt to gain access to the steep exposures of the back basin. The sounds of Salmonella Dub, a New Zealand reggae band, drifted down the line of skiers and snowboarders as one of the lift operators whipped out his iPod and miniature speakers. Because of an intense hunger to sample the pristine snow hanging to the rocky slopes above, the work was soon done, and we were able to taste the fruits of our labors.

The sun rose higher and higher throughout the day, driving temperatures into the 50s F. The snow, however, remained soft enough to cut right through. We hiked and skied, lap after lap, attempting to ski every exposure in the basin. While the area didn’t appear to be that large, there was no shortage of fresh tracks and challenging terrain. After a short break for lunch, we continued on, skiing until sunset. When we finally came down off the mountain tongues wagging, we wore enormous smiles. As we sat outside the lodge sipping Speight’s beers and watching the sun disappear behind the Alps, we laughed at the almost absurdly great experience we had had that day. The aromas from dinner wafted out the door as a chill began to set in. Grinning, we picked up our drinks and headed inside, ready to relax with our new friends and wait for the beginning of a new, incredible skiing day at Temple Basin.

Further Information

Must see/do at this place: Stop down the road at the town of Arthur's Pass. It consists of a quirky little petrol station that serves a wide variety of meat pies.

You should avoid here: Watch out for the kias....NZ's carnivorous parrot!