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Once (pronounced “ohn-say,” like the number 11 in Spanish), was once the hub of Buenos Aires' Jewish community. Today, it has become the city's main garment district. While many Orthodox families still populate the neighborhood, it is also home to a growing Korean population. Button and clothing stores line the gritty streets, where bright fabrics are sold and bargains made daily. One of Buenos Aires' less touristy areas, Once is also considered unsafe – even to locals – especially after dark.

The middle class neighborhood was named after the local train station, 11 de Septiembre (today, Sarmiento), which cuts through the Plaza Miserere (also known as Plaza Once) and brings in commuters from the city outskirts. There are not many bars or restaurants in this area, and Argentines who know it well discourage tourists from wandering the rough streets in the evening.

However, there are a few things in Once worth seeing, as long as you bring your street smarts. When it comes to lodging, there is little more than the small Complejo Tango Hotel Boutique, which offers special tango shows to its guests. To eat, there are slim pickings especially after the sun goes down, but Korean eatery Bi Won is your best bet. Probably the highlight of this neighborhood is the Live Music at Konex, where every Monday night young Argentines gather for the weekly outdoor percussion performance that begins at 7 p.m. but is usually followed by afterparties at other nearby clubs. For a more serious side of Once, visit the Museo de Deuda Externa.

Other neighborhoods in Buenos Aires: Barracas, Palermo, Tigre, Abasto, Northern Suburbs: Vincente Lopez, Olivos, San Isidro, Puerto Madero, Caballito, Flores, San Telmo and Las Cañitas.

23 Aug 2010

Things to do in Once

Plaza Miserere

Largely maligned by porteños, the Plaza Miserere, often called Plaza Once, is not for the faint of heart. A major transportation hub in the middle of the chaotic Once neighborhood, an eternal shroud ...
City Plaza
Once, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Centro Cultural Konex

Mention this cultural center to a local, ex-pat or anyone who’s ever visited Buenos Aires and you’ll hear them rave about La Bomba de Tiempo, the Monday night percussion show, which drives the ...
Once, Buenos Aires, Argentina
View Once Map

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