Las Leñas

By Brian Hagenbuch

To get to the remote ski area of Las Leñas, it’s best to take a bus from Buenos Aires or fly from the Jorge Newberry Airport in El Malargüe. Buses tickets can be bought direct to the ski area with a short stop in San Rafael, or you can save a few pesos by making a connection in San Rafael. Andesmar is generally considered to the most comfortable bus company for the overnight trip, but it is also the most expensive. The flight to El Malargüe is only an hour and a half and arrangements can easily be made to get you to the hill from there. Renting a car is an option but it’s prudent to leave driving in the Andes to trained professionals.

The ski area itself is a sight to behold. Set in a massive, treeless valley, many defend it as having the best in-bounds terrain of any resort in the Americas. Having said that, there are draw-backs. Inaugurated in June of 1983, the ski resort is relatively new and has had administrative problems. Because of this, the lifts are dated, slow, and break down often, making lines a problem during the peak months. Also, because it is above tree line and subject to extreme weather, large storms can shut the mountain and the road down for days. But if you’re lucky enough to get it on a good day, Las Leñas has some of the best skiing in the world. Its remote location and almost mythical stature have made Las Leñas trendy amongst the rich and famous and the place fills with jet-setters and soap opera stars from Argentina, Brazil, and even Colombia.

You can try your luck in the middle of winter, but springtime is recommended. Some time around the end of August prices drop, the weather gets nice, and the posh start going to their beach houses, leaving the ski area empty and glorious.

The best way to go about it, and in fact almost the only way, is to arrange package deals in with travel agents beforehand. Most hotels and condos won’t give you any information directly, so you have to go through agencies to make arrangements. The agencies, most of which are in Buenos Aires, are all listed on the website under operadores. Most of those listed speak English, so don’t be afraid to call a few to be sure you’re not being over-charged. Prices are too fluid to list, varying with the time of the year, bargaining skills, and other vague factors. Lift tickets cost $43.65 during the high season and $28.45 during the low season, but usually come cheaper as part of package deals.