

Formosa has the whole gamut of restaurants: small diners crowded at lunchtime, sidewalk cafés popular at any hour of the day, and fine bistros with exclusive river vistas. Travelers on a tighter budget can pick up groceries at Carrefour (España and Rivadavia) or Supermercado Caceres, which has a large take-out food section (Belgrano and Uriburu).
Restaurant menus include local pacú and surubà fish, farm-raised yacaré (caiman), and all manner of mandioca (yuca) and batata (yams). Chipas, a yuca starch and cheese bread, and tereré, yerba mate prepared with cold water, are popular snacks.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...



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