During the late 16th century, the region north of the RÃo Paraná was a no-man’s land. Indigenous populations determined to keep the foreign occupiers out and Portuguese slave traders constantly attacked the religious missions established to teach the Guaranà the new European way of life. Thousands of priests and their native mission residents had to flee.
In one such attack, the Franciscans Ciudad Real lost their statue of the Virgin Mary. Carved of walnut and timbó wood, the image shows her praying, a tranquil smile upon her face. Those priests re-established their mission at Tabacué. As luck would have it, some Guaranà found the Virgin atop a pointed rock (itatà in their language) several kilometers upstream, surrounded by light and celestial music. The Catholics brought her back to the new mission, but twice she disappeared only to be found atop the itatÃ. The Franciscans finally got the hint. In 1615, they moved to ItatÃ, and built a church especially for the Virgin.Next to the basilica is the previous church, IglesÃa de AlegrÃa y Obieta, built in 1853. This simple, colonial parish-style church is now the Museo Sacro (Thursday-Sunday 10 a.m.-1 p.m., 2-5 p.m. E-mail: artesacroitati@gmail.com. Entry: adults $0.60, children 17 years old and younger free). On display are statues, furniture, chalices and other church fixtures, and a collection of ex votos, or gifts to the Virgin for her intersession. Guaranà artisans carved some of the most notable pieces, such as the 18th century Cruz del Buen Ladrón (Cross of the Good Thief) and a Christ statue with movable limbs.
Across from the churches is a large, shady plaza. Around this square are Itat۪̉s oldest buildings. Next to the church, down Calle Obispo Niella, is the lively market where souvenirs and every-day wares may be bought. Thrice weekly Paraguayans boat across the river to add flavour to the fair. Along the river are campgrounds and balnearios, or fishing and swimming beaches.Services
Itatà has everything ready to receive the millions of pilgrims that come every year to visit the Virgin. On one corner of the plaza is the Dirección de Turismo kiosk (Monday-Friday 7 a.m.-1 p.m., 3-8 p.m., weekends 8 a.m.-noon, holidays 3-9 p.m. Av 25 de Mayo and Obispo Niella, Tel: 49-3048, URL: www.turismoitati.com.ar). The village also has a bank (ATM), post office, police, hospital and other necessities.Guides
Cabañas De Allá Itá and Puerto ParaÃso Iratà both have fishing guides. Neither have phone numbers and are located downstream from downtown. Ask at the tourism office for instructions of how to arrive to them.Hotels
Hotels fill up on feast days. The town has five campsites and over a dozen hotels for every pocketbook.Restaurants
Follow Calle Obispo Niella down to the street behind the church. That street is lined with dozens of parrilla joints and ice cream stands. Most close by mid-afternoon. A few hotels near the plaza have restaurants open in the evening.,
Other places nearby ItatÃ: Paraná, San Cosme, Mburucuyá, Corrientes, Santa Ana De Los Guácaras, Esteros Del Iberá, Santa Fe and Rosario.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...
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