

Paraná has a dozen free museums, including the outstanding Museo Histórico Provincial (Tuesday-Friday 8 a.m.-12:30 p.m., 3-8 p.m.; Saturday 9 a.m.-noon, 5-7 p.m.; Sunday, holidays 9 a.m.-noon. Buenos Aires and Laprida, Tel: 420-7869) and the Museo Provincial de Ciencias Naturales y Antropológicas. Most people, though, choose to ignore these galleries and head straight for the river. From the coastal Parque Urquiza's port, all manner of expeditions depart, from kayaking to river cruises to Santa Fe. Midstream is Islote Curupà with hiking trails.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...



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