Playa Unión is where the folks from Trelew and Rawson go for a bit of rest and relaxation. This small beach town on Bahía Engaño is hopping during the summer and on weekends when dance clubs throb until the wee hours. But once everyone heads back inland, the only sound heard in Playa Unión is the wash of the sea against the long stretch of sand. The village owes its name to the Italian ship “Unión” that wrecked here in 1876.

As Rawson’s Avenida Antártida Argentina enters Playa Unión, it becomes Juan M. de Rosas. When it reaches the oceanfront boulevard, Avenida Rawson, a pod of concrete toninas overas leap from a fountain. Avenida Rawson, with a bicycle lane and pedestrian walkway, runs along the seafront to Puerto Rawson (2 km / 1.2 mi). Restaurants dot the edge of the tree-lined beach. This strand is a pleasant place to have a picnic lunch and watch for passing dolphins and whales.

At Calle Vivaldi is the Centro Cultural which has art exhibits during the summer. Next door is Aquavida, an interpretive center about the marine and coastal flora and fauna of the region (Monday-Friday 9 .m.-6 p.m., weekends and holidays 12:30-5:30 p.m.; closed Saturday in the low season. Tel.: 49-6887. Entry $0.60).

The Shipwrecks Monument at Avenida Rawson and Soldados de Malvinas marks the beginning of Puerto Rawson. A few blocks further, a pair of seawalls (escolleras) frames the mouth of the Río Chubut. The end of each is crowned with a lighthouse. A walkway on the northern wall allows you to view the abundant wildlife. At low tide, many birds feed in the tidal flats between the escolleras.

Puerto Rawson is principally a fishing port. When the ships of the flota amarilla return, sea lions arrive to sample the day’s catch. Mostly merluza (hake), prawns, salmon and shrimp are netted. From this port, tonina-watching boat tours leave at high tide (1-2 daily; adults $34, children 4-12 years old $17).

Playa Unión is best known for the excursions to see tonina overa (Commerson’s dolphin, Cephalorynchus commersonii). These marine mammals, as well as elefantes marinos (elephant seal, Mirounga leonina), lobos marinos (South American sea lion, Otaria flavescens) and seabirds are sighted all year long. At times dolphins come between December and March and ballena franca austral (southern right whale, Eubalaena australis) from June to December. Pingüinos de Magallanes (Magellanic Penguin, Spheniscus magellanicus) and occasionally orcas (Orcinus orca) visit September-April. Although agencies in Trelew and Puerto Madryn offer tonina tours, travelers can easily arrange them alone for less money.

When the large waves called gordas, swelling up to 1.5 meters (five ft) high, loom off this shore February-April, surfers hit the waters. Kite surfing and windsurfing are also practiced at this beach. Fishers will find fishing at Playa Unión rewarding. Every February they can join in on the Fiesta de los Pescadores in Puerto Rawson. Playa Unión hosts the Fiesta del Atlántico Sur, during which a variety of events occur in January.

Services

Informes Turísticos, the tourism office, is helpful (Monday-Friday 8 .m.-8 p.m., weekends and holidays 10 .m.-8 p.m. Avenida Rawson and Rosas, Tel.: 49-6887, E-mail: turismoplayaunion@argentina.com, URL: www.playaunion.gov.ar). Playa Unión has limited services: police (Rosas and Rifleros, Tel.: 49-6354), Banco del Chubut ATMs (Rosas, between Santa Lucía and Coronel, and next to the tourism office), phone center (Avenida Centenario and Guerra), internet café (Avenida Centenario and Puetrredón), health post (Rosas, between Planes and Carbonelli, Tel.: 49-6003) and pharmacy (Rosas and Rivadavia).

Artesanía

Artesanías Piedras Patagónicas (Aguaraguazú and Andino, Tel.: 49-6113)

In summer, itinerant artisans line the costanera.

Tours

Coiron Viajes (Rifleros 493, Tel.: 1553-4853, E-mail: coironviajes@infovia.com.ar, URL: www.coironviajes.com.ar) – Punta Tombo, minimum 2 persons

Toninas Adventure (Avenida M. González, Puerto Rawson, Tel.: 1567-5741, E-mail: toninasadventure@msn.com, URL: www.enpuertorawson.com.ar) – tonina boat tours

Estación Marítima Commersoni (Avenida M. González, Puerto Rawson, Tel.: 49-8508 / 1559-1514, E-mail. contacto@estacionmaritima.com.ar, URL: www.estacionmaritima.com.ar) – tonina boat tours

Hotels

Playa Unión has three campgrounds, all located on Cacique Nahuelpan: Camping Seros (Tel.: 49-6982; $3 per person per day, plus one time charge: tent $2, motor home $3), Camping Policial (Tel.: 1541-9115; $1.70 per person per day, plus one time charge: tent $1.70, motor home $2), Camping Banco Provincia (Tel.: 1567-0215). Grounds are open December-March.

Hostería Le Bon (Rifleros 68, Tel.: 49-6638) – 1 person $28, 2 persons $40

Hotel Punta León (Piedra and Hernández, Tel.: 49-8042) – 1 person $54, 2 persons $60

All-equipped apartments (departamentos) are a cheaper alternative for groups and families. Check with the tourism office. Hotel prices increase in summer.

Restaurants

Several supermarkets and produce stands are on Avenida Centenario. Many restaurants are along the seafront. Most are closed out of season.

Dinaldo (Avenida Rawson, Tel.: 1569-6399)

Miguel Ángel (Avenida Rawson and Centenario, Tel.: 49-6955)

Cantina Bogavente (Avenida M. González, Puerto Rawson, Tel.: 49-8286)