

Near Puerto Madryn are four nature parks, including UNESCO Patrimony Site Península Valdés. The main draw is whale watching. Scuba diving and kayaking are two popular aquatic sports. But Madryn is much more than just the outdoors. Drop into its half-dozen museums, including the superb Ecocentro and Museo Oceanográfico y de Ciencias Naturales (Monday-Friday 9 a.m.-7 p.m., Saturday 3-7 p.m. García and Menédez, Tel: 45-1139. Entry: adults / children—Argentine $0.80 / $0.50, foreigners $1.60 / $1). The first Friday of each month is Gallery Night, tours of four museums (transport free; entries extra). In winter an ice skating rink opens on Boulevard Brown.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...





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