

Even though Puerto Madryn draws many foreign tourists, the restaurant menus are decidedly Argentine, with the added attraction of seafood. (Try the vieiras—scallops—and the gulf’s own white salmon.) Some haute-cuisine bistros add an oriental flair to some entrĂ©es. Vegetarians can usually find some dish to satisfy their taste buds. When spring comes, places put tables out on the sidewalk. Many up-scale restaurants charge an additional cubierto (service fee, usually $1). Two supermarkets are located right downtown: Super Vea (San MartĂn and Belgrano) and Carrefour (28 de Julio 136).
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...





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