Argentina's Ruta 40: Traveling the Backroad Overview

Although a ways off Argentina’s main western Patagonia route, some travelers feel drawn to visit Gobernador Gregores. It is a small town of vast contrasts. Set in a river valley surrounded by mesetas and a landscape full of flora and fauna typical of the Patagonian steppe, the countryside holds opportunities to hike in the footsteps of indigenous and strikers. The residents of this still-agricultural area have declared it a Municipio No Nuclear (Nuclear-free City), yet mining is gaining a strong foothold as the US company Coeur exploits Mina Martha for silver and gold.

For centuries, this fertile valley on the Río Chico was an aik, or rest stop for the indigenous Aónikenk peoples. By the late 19th Century, boliches (taverns) and inns began to appear here, as it was on a route from the sheep ranches to the ports. It came to be called Cañadón León for the puma that once roamed the area. Antonio Llaneras established the first ranch in the valley, which is now within the city limits. The true founder of Cañadón León, though, is considered to be Austrian-born José Kuney Posne, who in 1920 set up a blacksmith forge to tend to the horses and wagons passing on this rudimentary road. His house is now a historic place, next to the regional museum (open in summer only. Alberdi and Paseo 9 de Julio). The name of the village was changed in 1959 to Gobernador Gregores in honor of Juan Manuel Gregores, governor of Santa Cruz Territory from 1932 to 1945.

Even though the flat hills protects it from the cold winds that barrel across the plains, it still has predominantly western winds that are calmer in the fall and winter. In winter, it experiences some of the coldest temperatures in all of Argentina, with temperatures at freezing to -20ºC (-4ºF). In summer, days are sunny and warm, with temperatures reaching 14-30ºC (57-86ºF). The climate is dry, with only 170 millimeters (7 in) of precipitation per year. In winter heavy snows can fall. January is the only frost-free month.

While in Gobernador Gregores, you can have a quiet picnic on the banks of the Río Chico or pass a pleasant afternoon fishing. On Isla Fea on the other side of the river are many farm chacras. The Escuela Agropecuaria No. 1, an agricultural boarding school, may be visited and the students’ products purchased. A short hike up to the Punto Panorámico leads to excellent views of the town and valley. Atop this meseta is a statue of the Virgen de Itatí (2 km / 1.2 mi along Ruta Provincial 25).

Another mini-trek is to Cañadón de los Muertos, where over 200 workers holding Estancia Bella Vista were killed by government forces during the 1921-1922 strike. The ranch is just on the other side of the knoll from the monument that marks the spot where the executions had been done. Old-timers recount that the winds would often uncover the barely buried bodies. Like other strike-related places, commemorations were anonymously placed. Additionally, this gulch came to be known as Cañadón de los Muertos, or Ravine of the Dead. In 2000, the present cross monument was formally erected. The Cañadón is the starting point for the human rights tour, Tras los Pasos de los Huelguistas. (The site is 7 km / 4.2 mi from the city. To get there, cross the vehicle bridge over the river and follow Ruta Provincial 27 5 km / 3 mi to the signed turn-off and follow that 2 km / 1.2 mi uphill to the monument. Just before the cross is a right-hand fork of the road from which Estancia Bella Vista is seen.)

Further from the city are other places for the outdoors enthusiast. Cerro Ventana is a 460-meter (1509-foot) hill of volcanic origin located 50 kilometers (30 mi) from Gobernador Gregores along Ruta Provincial 27. Hiking the trial to the top provides opportunities to check out the flora and fauna typical of the area (Difficulty: easy, Duration: 4 hr). Taking the southern branch of Ruta 29 to Ruta 40 takes you to Lago Cardiel (70 km / 42 mi). The semi-circular lake with an arrow-shaped peninsula is surrounded by hills and desert brush. Its milky-green water, slightly brackish from high mineral salt content, is a great place for trout and salmon fishing. Every Semana Santa is the Fiesta del Salmón. Birdwatching is another preferred activity at this lake. Parque Nacional Perito Moreno, one of Patagonia’s least visited national parks, has beech forests populated by huemul (South Andean deer, Hippocamelus bisulcus) (200 km / 120 mi west).

The beginning of November is the Festival Infantil Folclórico Patagónico Cañadón León, featuring the music and dance talents of regional youth.

Services

Gobernador Gregores has limited services for the traveler: Dirección de Turismo (Monday-Friday 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Isla Fea, on the other side of the Río Chico from 9 de Julio and Colón, Tel.: 49-1259, E-mail: gregoresturismo@yahoo.com.ar), Parque Nacional Perito Moreno office (San Martín 882, Tel.: 49-1477, E-mail: peritomoreno@apn.gov.ar), Policía (San Martín 1087, Tel.: 49-1088), Banco Santa Cruz (San Martín 402; ATM; no money exchange), Correo (Alberdi 490), several phone and internet centers, hospital (Paradelo 1025, Tel.: 49-1027), one pharmacy (SanMartíen and 12 de octubre) and laundry.

Artesanía and Shopping

Konkashken (San Martín 845, Tel.: 49-1102) – jams, cheese, sweets and other local agricultural products

Locutorio Lo Fa Lu (Belgrano 975, Tel.: 49-1425) – fishing and camping supplies

Tours

Estancia Los Granaderos (Roca 1168, Tel.: 49-1163, E-mail: info@ealosgranadero.com.ar, URL: www.ealosgranadero.com.ar) – Conducts “Tras los Pasos de los Huelguistas” tour, which begins in Gobernador Gregores and follows the footsteps of the 1920-1922 strikers

Hotels

Many of the cheaper hospedajes are permanently booked by mine workers.

Camping Municipal María del Valle (Chile and Roca, Tl.: 49-1259) – grills, bathrooms; small and rundown; free

Hospedaje La Flaca (Pejkovic 347, Tel.: 49-12279) – kitchenette, private bath; $20 per person

Hotel Cañadón León (Roca 397, Tel.: 49-1082) – 1 person $40, 2 persons $57

Hostería Lago Cardiel (Paradelo and Barrenechea, Tel.: 49-1488) – 1 person $54, 2 persons $71

Restaurants

The town has several large supermarkets. Bakeries are scarce.

Rotisería Suyai (9 de Julio 1072, Tel.: 49-1376) – carry out

Restaurant El Criollo (12 de Octubre 525, Tel.: 49-1174)

Pizzaría El Chicho (Belgrano 319, Tel.: 49-1376)

(Altitude: 287 m / 942ft, Population: 2519, Phone Code: 02962)