Many tourists come to El Calafate to boat up to the world’s eighth natural wonder, Glaciar Perito Moreno, and perhaps to trek on its craggy blue surface. But El Calafate isn’t just about seeing a big chunk of ice. You can wander through one of the museums here, or bike to the costanera to birdwatch, or to Cueva del Waliche. Take a hike at Bosque Petrificado la Leona. You can horseback ride on the ranches or fish at Lago Roca and other area lakes. If you decide to come in winter, you’ll find plenty to keep you occupied as well.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...
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