

El Chaltén bills itself as the National Trekking Capital – and for good reason. This northern part of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares has many trails winding around the bases of the great massifs to lagoons and lakes. Wildlife is plentiful. For budget travelers, it’s a dream destination, as no entry is charged into the park and these trails can be done without a guide. Climbing Torre and Viedma Glaciers, horseback riding, and kayaking down Río de las Vueltas are just a few more ways to fill the days. Many climbers aspire to summit Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy, considered two of the world’s most difficult peaks to scale.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...















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