Purmamarca

By Suzanne Russo

Population: 388

Altitude: 2192m

Itsy bitsy Purmamarca is made up of exactly 13 blocks, all of which ooze small town charm. No building numbers here; there is simply no need. Restaurants, hotels, and shops seem to equal homes in number, a testament to the town’s popularity, especially among Argentines.

The small but pretty plaza at the center of town is filled daily with artisans selling crafts and locals always have a smile or a friendly word, but what steals the show in this town is neither its quaint size nor its lovely residents. Neither stand a chance be with the Cerro de Siete Colores (Hill of Seven Colors) blazing in the background. Its vibrant colors—from deep purples to vivid oranges—make a picturesque contrast with the earth-toned adobe buildings.

Purmamarca was founded in 1594 and is proud of its rich heritage, particularly of the historic Iglesia de Santa Rosa, which was named a National Historic Monument in 1948. Of equal (if not more) significance to residents is the algarrobo tree near the church, which is thought to be around 1000 years old and the site of many historic events. According to legend it was underneath the algarrobo that Viltipico, the town’s last free chief, shared a glass of chicha (a traditional Andean drink) with the first Spanish missionary, and the very same tree provided shade to Belgrano’s troops. To this day, people gather round the tree each January to repeat verses their ancestors once sang.

Though the church is one of the most treasured sights in Purmamarca, whose name is an Aimaran word for “Town of the Virgin Land,” Andean traditions are equally as important as Catholic ones. Alongside Christmas and Easter pageants are practices of remembering the dead, honoring the Pachamama, and celebrating with traditional Andean instruments. Perhaps this juxtaposition is what lends the town its magic. Or perhaps it’s the ancient tree, or magnificent mountains… Whatever it is, the force is strong one.