Ruta de los Siete Lagos

The Ruta de los Siete Lagos, or “Seven Lakes Route,” is the more common name given to the famous provincial Route 234 in the Neuquén Province, one of the most spectacularly scenic stretches of road in the Lake District, if not all of South America. The narrow track passes through the forested valleys of both Nahuel Huapi and Lanín National Parks, winding its way around secluded sparkly pools and waterways to connect Bariloche to San Martín de los Andes to the North, passing through the upmarket town of Villa la Angostura and several tinier Patagonian lake villages along the way.

The partially-paved route can be driven, biked or even hiked, and can be made in either direction. It’s possible but tiring to drive the whole circuit in a day; if you have the luxury of a little time, better to take a few days to allow for plenty of stops along the way. Modest accommodation and camping is available on the shores of several of the lakes, or spend a night in the classic mountain town of Villa la Angostura, or the smaller charming Villa Traful. While the latter is smaller and more remote, both have plenty of amenities and make good bases for exploring the area. From Villa la Angostura you can visit Los Arrayanes National Park, a thick expanse of rare Arrayanes trees through which you can walk or admire from a boat.

The route is so named for the seven main lakes it passes, starting by the shores of Nahuel Huapi in Bariloche and skirting Espejo, Correntoso, Escondido, Villarino, Falkner, and Machónico before arriving on the shores of Lácar (not usually counted in the seven) in San Martín, with many beautiful (and swimable!) smaller pools lying between them along the way. Heading north from Villa la Angostura, the road climbs high over Lago Correntoso, opening up to magnificent views (with plenty of mirador pulloffs along the road). Further along, Lago Espejo, dubbed for it’s perfectly calm reflective waters (said to be the warmest in the area), is a great place to stop off for a swim or a picnic on its pretty beaches. There’s free camping alongside the park ranger post, nicer sites sit just beyond on the beach and cost a dollar per person. If you didn’t bring a tent but want to stay the night or just grab a bite, Hostería Lago Espejo (02944-494583; hosterialagoespejo@netpatagonia.com) has surprisingly charming rooms overlooking the lake and a good bar and restaurant.

Just up the road, the rustic Hostería 7 Lagos, run by the local Quintupuray family, has good baked snacks and camping (no phone onsite, make arrangements by calling the taxi in Villa la Angostura at 02944-494218 who will radio the hostel, or just walk in). Further along there is camping with facilities at the larger Lago Falkner, a popular fishing hole with a long strip of pebbly beach. There are lots of fantastic treks of varying lengths climbing around the lake and up to Cerro Falkner and around the Vulliñanco waterfall.

Nearing San Martín de los Andes as the road wraps around the eastern shores of Lago Machónico, where a detour track leads to tiny Lago Hermoso, a good place to camp (sites with amenities). Alternatively, Refugio Lago Hermoso (02944-425290, www.refugiolagohermoso.com) offers lovely accommodation in a delightful airy lodge just off the main route.

The track is a deservedly famous mountain biking destination, with gently inclining track passing bridges over sparkly azure waters and between lakes, all the while snow-dusted peaks towering in the backdrop like a scene from Lord of the Rings. Take caution biking in high season mid-summer months when the road is particularly dry, making it hard to see in the dust trails of fast traveling cars that can kick up rocks. The whole route can be done by bike in two days, although a great section to cycle if you’re picking and choosing is the stretch from Villa La Angostura to San Martin, reversed if you’re up for an uphill challenge.

Albus and Ko Ko bus companies run slightly sporadic services along part of the route between Villa La Angustura and San Martín de los Andes ($7), though you’re much better off renting a car, taking a tour or even hitchhiking (while we won’t go so far as to recommend it, an extremely common mode of transportation in the area) as the joy in the trip is stopping off to enjoy vistas and dip in the lakes.

Location:
Bariloche, Argentina

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By Caroline Bennett

exploring, laughing, wanderlust, strangers. 120 film, making art, cyanotypes, vintage. scotch on the rocks & coffee, black. the unknown. the sound of...

Created: 21 Feb 2008

Updated: 13 Mar 2008

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