Muela del Diablo

By Kelley Coyner

According to Bolivian abuelas (grandmothers), Muela del Diablo (the Devil’s molar) can be a dangerous place. The hole at the base of the mountain is supposedly enchanted and draws in dogs and young men who are swallowed by its darkness and never seen again. In this part of the Andes, myths and legends of mountain devils abound. The devil figures prominently in the local carnival dance, and special amulets are made for rituals performed to protect miners who enter the mountain.

To the unsuspecting observer, Muela del Diablo appears like nothing more harmful than a broken tooth jutting out from the mountains that surround the bowl-shaped valley that is home to the capital city of La Paz. For many years, the Devil’s Tooth was the venue for trekkers seeking to acclimatize to the altitude before taking on a multi-day trek. Despite its rather ominous history, it remains a beautiful half day walk that provides a spectacular view of the city of La Paz as well as the scenic gorges that surround it. During the fall, winter, and spring (roughly April to November), the walk also boasts spectacular views of the Cordillera Real, including Illumani and Murato. 40 bolivianos and a predisposition for taxis chugging along nearly vertical mountain roads will get you to the Pedregal cemetery and from there to the Muela del Diablo trailhead (if your driver isn’t careful, your visit to the cemetery may be permanent!).   

Follow the trail up to a small plateau, where you can gaze at the scenery and stop for a picnic. The hardier can continue on, and scramble up the rocky outcropping. Take care as there is lot of scree, or loose rock, which can be particularly challenging on windy days. The summit is reachable, but only with climbing gear, strong legs and a hankering for heights. While in the area, avoid walking across fields, even small ones, as this is seen as a sign of disrespect (and because you may trample potato plants).

If you happen to be at the Muela on All Saints Day, which is celebrated on November 2, head to the cemetery at San Pedregal, where you can experience some of the most vibrant and colorful celebrations in the area. For hours on end, the air is filled with the music of bands playing in the smaller graveyard, close to the start of the trail. As you enjoy the music, notice the lavishly decorated graves, which are adorned not only with crowns of flowers, but also special breads and other food stuffs to feed the spirits of the dead. Tents selling food and drink for the living, along with carnival rides, ring the perimeter.

As for the dangers of the cave, you’ll have to decide for yourself.