Location:
Brazil

Favela; Rio de Janeiro; Poverty

By Hollie Cayzer

‘Remember Guys, you should be cautious, but you don’t need to feel afraid.’

Our guide Luiz could sense a collective uneasiness as we approached Rocinha favela, the largest of the many labyrinthine slum areas that tower over Rio de Janeiro. Cinematic depictions have firmly placed preconceptions in our heads of the unrelenting poverty and gangland style violence in the favelas. It is this instilled mindset, along with the intrigue of the unknown that lures in the inquisitive traveller who hopes to see a little more than the pristine sands of Copacabana.

After an exhilarating high speed jaunt up winding hills on the back of a motorcycle taxi, we reach the top of the favela and I am immediately taken aback by the view. A corrugated city of houses on top of houses, each a different colour - as though someone had taken the fun out of Lego, and made it an impoverished reality. On the breeze I catch the haunting sound of a car radio; Chris Isaak sings about his Wicked Game, and although the English words feel immensely jarring in this context, it seems fitting that a song about heartbreak should ring out over such destitution.

As we make our way into the heart of the favela, Luiz points out a conspicuous looking guy wearing a baseball cap and shades. ‘Do you see his walkie-talkie? That guy is the Watcher; if he sees any police in the area, or anything that could create trouble for the drugs gangs, he puts out the word.’ The claustrophobic streets close in around us as we walk further. It is a sunny day, but the favela is dark, surrounded by thousands of buildings, and buried under a system of illegal power cables.

Most people smile as they walk past, calling out ‘Bom dia’ and giving us high fives. As we walk away from a friendly juice bar, Luiz walks closely to me, ‘That guy you were standing next to at the counter, he was the main drug boss here – did you see his gun?’ No, I hadn’t seen his gun; I had been too busy waving at the ever so cute five year old at his side.

Wondering what part she will grow up to play in the favela, I begin to see Rocinha as a hilltop underworld, with its dark narrow lanes, and its shady inhabitants - it is almost as though the whole slum is standing in the shadow of Christ the Redeemer, looking up to him for salvation, but finding none.

Visiting a local artist’s studio, hope is found; our host teaches kids how to paint in hope of keeping them out of trouble. We are greeted by wall to wall oil paintings of the sights of Rio. Touched by the idea that such beauty can be created from such darkness, I buy a canvas, knowing that this is the impression of Rio I want to take home with me.

Further Information

Travel tips: Be cautious, but not paranoid

Must see/do at this place: Go to see the favelas with Be a Local tours,

You should avoid here: you should not venture into the favela alone.