Birdwatching in the Pantanal

By Fiona Leslie

The Pantanal (meaning swamp in Portuguese) stretches from the Matto Grosso in the west of Brazil across to Bolivia and drains into Paraguay’s Río Paraná. The area is home to some of the most diverse habitats for birds, from rivers, plains, flooded meadows and tropical forests to humid palm groves. Traveling down the Trans-Pantanal highway from Cuiabá, birds and wildlife abound in the water-filled roadside ditches—from kingfishers and parakeets to capybara and caiman. It’s a voyage by boat, horseback, or on foot to see these natural wonders.   

An afternoon silent-paddle up the Rio Claro is the perfect way to hear the clacking dawn call of the Chaco Chachalaca, which is soon joined by various noisy Monk Parakeets and Blue-fronted Parrots. Then the softer rising call of the Undulated Tinamou or the Barred and Great Antshrikes competes with the Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers which clatter up and down the banks and the gentle warble of the Thrush-like Wren. A striking Rufescent Tiger-Heron can be spotted in a tree or a Striated Heron patiently poised on a shaded log whilst an Olivaceous Cormorant flies downstream. As the orange sun rises up from the adjacent plains, perhaps a Crested Curassow or a Dusky-legged Guan will be seen clumsily balanced high in a tree or the bright red and yellow flash of a Crested Oropendola dashing in and out of its skillfully woven nests, which dangles from on high like nature’s bauble decorations. Where the river slows down and pads form, a disturbed Wattled Jacana flaps awkwardly across the surface, revealing its yellow wing flashes, and nearby in a low bush a Donacobius with its striking black and white tail sits. It is possible to catch a glimpse of the shy, awkward Sun Bittern, then a sudden whoosh from a tall tree to the side and a Black-collared Hawk flaps away. Around the next bend an Osprey swoops down to the surface, its large strong talons extended for a fresh fish meal.

Returning to terra firma, a low-branched tree is bed to ten slumbering Guira cuckoos. Across the plains of roaming cattle, the Great Rheas live beside the Great and Smooth-Billed Anis, Bay-winged Cowbirds and Cattle Egrets. Pairs of Southern Lapwings peck grass with Buff-necked Ibis here from the Tierra del Fuego. In a rut pool darts a Solitary Sandpiper and a Limpkin, and in a nearby pond White-faced Ducks paddle. Here fly Savannah and Roadside Hawks, as well as Snail Kites. The water-filling meadows are dotted with the huge white forms of Jabiru Storks, their large stick nests shared with squawking Mitered Parakeets. In a palm grove, Hyacinth Macaws feast on hard nuts whilst the distinctive water-drop-like call of a Troupial resounds. The persistent hammer of a Blond-crested Woodpecker is one of many of that family here up with the Toucans and Trogons. In a tree near the lodge sings a sweet Saffron Finch and in bushes bob Golden-billed Cardinals with Grayish Saltadors. The list of birding possibilities here is awe-inspiring and endless.