Location:
Brazil

Ecological paradise, budget, island

By Catherine Ellis

Paradise doesn't come cheap. It is even more expensive when the place in mind is an ecological sanctuary and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Fernando de Noronha, a tiny island 200 miles off the North East coast of Brazil, is a prime holiday hotspot for Brazil’s wealthy and ecologically conscious. Situated four degrees below the equator, the climate is pleasant all year round and with a limit to the number of visitors allowed onto the island at any one time, it is a haven of tranquility and serenity. It is no wonder that three of Brazil’s top five beaches are located on Fernando de Noronha.

With a six-week backpacking trip around Brazil already planned, my friend and I decided that we could just about squeeze in a few days on the island. But with average accommodation prices between US$200-400 a night, our dream trip to paradise was looking unlikely. Luckily, after a bit of research on the internet and a couple of emails to an agency called Your Way, we discovered a reasonably priced hostel on the island, the Native Lounge. This was in fact the only hostel on the island, and by far the cheapest accommodation we could find.

Another hurdle in our quest to paradise was how to get there. The only way to get there is to take a flight or go by cruise-ship. Naturally, the latter for us was not an option. Flying, however, was not cheap either. A round trip could cost around US$400. We ended up purchasing a Brazil Air Pass with TAM Airlines. The Air Pass cost around US$800 for four flights in Brazil, which was stretching our budget, but well worth it considering the size of Brazil, our timescale, and the fact that we got to go to visit places such as Rio, the Amazon Rainforest and most importantly, Fernando de Noronha.

Flying to the island was an experience in itself. On board a tiny plane, we descended with a panoramic view of the whole island. First impressions count, and this was some first impression! After landing and paying the Environmental Preservation Tax (all visitors to the island are obliged to pay and it is approximately US$20 per day), Tamar, a representative from Your Way, greeted us and we all hopped into a Buggy Taxi and headed to the Native Lounge. As we were used to 30 minute plus rides from airports and bus stations to hostels, a mere five minutes came as a pleasant surprise. But then again Noronha is only 7km long and everything on the island is easily accessible.

Native Lounge was a tad different to most of the hostels we stayed in. For a start, it was more like a small house. We had our own, albeit somewhat small bedroom, with private toilet and shower, plus access to the kitchen and living room. It wasn't The Ritz, but it was clean and tidy, and most importantly, at $40 a night, it was the only accommodation that came close to satisfying our shoestring budget. The restaurants on the island are exquisite, or so we heard. Unfortunately, due to our financial situation, restaurant dining was a luxury we could ill afford. Instead we opted to cook in the hostel and use supplies we had brought from the mainland. Spaghetti with tomato sauce, spaghetti with oil and garlic, and even egg and home-made chips were some of our concoctions. So a gourmet feast it wasn’t, but it sufficed and meant we saved money for the exciting things.

Although we didn’t get to sample the local cuisine, we did of course sample the beaches. The more beautiful beaches on the island are also the ones that are harder to reach. Perhaps this is why they remain so unspoiled. Although an effort to reach them, they are well worth the visit. Sancho Bay is ranked the best beach in the whole of Brazil and its easy to see why. After a long walk to the other end of the island, traipsing down a few dirt tracks and then rather ungracefully climbing down a couple of ladders, we were finally there. A pristine beach with golden sand and luscious blue waters.

Although Sancho was impressive, my favourite beach would have to be Baia dos Golfinhos (Dolhin's Bay.) Although strictly off limits to swimmers, the outlook of Mirante dos Gofinhos is a prime spot for watching spinner dolphins swim into the bay at sunrise. After getting up at 4a.m., we set off on foot, guided only by the moonlight and lights on our phones. Eventually we found the outlook spot, along with the team of biologists. At just after 6a.m. the beautiful creatures started making their journey towards the bay, jumping up and spinning out of the water (hence the name spinner dolphin.) The experience was magnificent and best of all, it had cost us nothing except some serious lack of sleep.

The waters of Fernando de Naronha are pure heaven under the sea. Although, scuba diving is a popular option, it is fairly expensive. A far more economical way of exploring the ocean is snorkeling. We hired the gear from the hostel for the day and explored the fish-filled waters of Baia dos Porcos. For around US$25 you can also hire a guide to show you the waters of Leão Bay, where the turtles lay their eggs in nesting season. With snorkeling gear and a life jacket, we waded into the water led by our guide Pablo. Within just a couple of minutes we were eye to eye with turtles, sharks and sting rays. Incredible, and probably the most spectacular visions of marine wildlife I had ever witnessed.

Another activity we opted for was a boat tour around the island. For around $50 (cheap by the island's standards), we saw dolphins swimming alongside the boat, snorkeled off Sancho Bay, were given fresh fruits, salad and fish, and also got to try planasub,an activity where you hold onto boards attached by rope to the boat and are pulled through the water. Gliding through the sea, we saw an array of colourful fish, turtles and more sharks. It was exhilarating, although if I'm honest, slightly scary at times.

Fernando de Norhana is an ecological playground. For those with a passion for wildlife, or those who want to explore a relatively unknown retreat, you can't fail to be won over by the island's charm. Yes, it can be very expensive, but it doesn't have to be. With some careful planning, Noronha can be done on even the flimsiest of budgets.

Further Information

Travel tips: Since it is an ecological sanctuary, everyone is told to be very careful with the amount of water they use etc. This is something to bear in mind.

Take some food from the mainland. The supermarket is very expensive.

Must see/do at this place: Swim with a guide at Leão Bay. This is the only way to explore these waters as it is not permitted without a guide. The experience is incredible.

You should avoid here: Unless you have the money, you really don´t need to scuba dive. You can see plenty by snorkelling or exploring the waters with a guide.

Since it is an ecological sanctuary, everyone is told to be very careful with the amount of water they use etc. This is something to bear in mind.

Avoid overpriced tours. Most things you can do yourself.