Samba in Mangueira

Location:
Brazil

samba, slums, Rio de Janeiro

By Audrey Bergner

When I travelled to Rio de Janeiro last winter, I was determined to experience the city beyond its colonial façade, so when two locals invited me to see some real samba in the favela of Mangueira, I immediately jumped at the opportunity. Rio’s slums are known as the birthplace of samba music, and although they aren’t the safest, they draw in tourists and locals alike to witness their rehearsals in preparation for Carnival. I arrived in Mangueira at 11:00 pm just as the crowd was beginning to gather outside the Palácio do Samba. The pink cotton-candy coloured building was located at the bottom of the favela and many locals were already making their way over down the dark narrow streets. Many were dressed in Mangueira’s colours: pink and green, showing their pride and support for the school. I wandered around observing everything yet making sure I didn’t stray too far. Vendors were selling liquor, cigarettes and local food to the expectant public; many of which looked like tourists. Loudspeakers had been set up around the building, and the rhythm of samba was infectiously spreading, leaving no one untouched. A group of little boys beamed smiles as they tapped their hands to the beat of the drum, while the young girls effortlessly practiced their samba step. None of them seemed aware of the time of night, and as I watched them I began to understand the central role samba plays in the favela. At midnight the doors finally opened and an excited crowd poured in. The band was already playing as we entered the warehouse-like building. The conductor was leading a loud array of nameless instruments in perfect unison, producing an electrifying sound. I looked up and noticed the ceiling had been rolled open to let in the evening breeze. Then, the leading female dancer emerged in her sequenced dress accompanied by her partner. She was carrying Mangueira’s flag and the floor was cleared for them. Their dancing was joyful and light-hearted, and they both radiated an authentic happiness which was captivating. The dancing continued into the early hours of the morning without fading in liveliness or intensity. What I learned that night is that for the people of Mangueira samba is their passion. Countless hours of hard work and dedication are put in year round in preparation for one culminating event: Carnival. For them, samba is more than just music. It is a way of setting aside their troubles and coming together as a community to celebrate life and their identity.

Further Information

Travel tips: Dress casually, this is a poor community. Don't wander into the favelas on your own.

Must see/do at this place: Samba is not an easy dance, but you should at least attempt it.