Salvador da Bahia

By Christopher Minster

Minster

When the Portuguese established their colonies in Brazil, African slaves were not far behind. Most of the slaves came into the city of Salvador da Bahia, for two reasons. First of all, it was the most important city on the Brazilian coast and relatively close to Africa. The second reason was sugarcane, which grew very well in the region. The slaves were unloaded and sold in the city center of Salvador: a district with the charming name of “Pelourinho,” or “whipping post.”

The slave trade eventually slowed, and Brazil outlawed slavery in 1888. By that date, there were thousands of Afro-Brazilians in the country, most of them in Salvador. Despite the horrors of slavery, they had managed to maintain much of their culture and heritage, and they preserve it to this day. A mixture of African, Portuguese and native culture make Salvador one of the most culturally fascinating cities in the world.

Afro-Brazilian culture dominates the city, which is probably about 80% black by population. Traditions old and new are at home in the city. The slaves brought their religion with them: it is called Candomblé, and it survived in spite of centuries of repression by the Roman Catholic Church and the government of Brazil. It is a polytheistic faith, and the different deities, about fifty in all, each have different histories and personalities. It differs from the African religions that produced it: in Catholic Brazil, Candomblé picked up some Christian influences. For example, some of the Orishas, or God-spirits, are associated with saints. It is possible to observe certain Candomblé services in Salvador.

Salvador is also known for new traditions. The berimbau is a bizarre musical instrument played by locals. It looks like an archer’s bow: it is one metal string attached to a curved pole. To play it, you tap on the cord with a small stick. Squeezing the cord to the bow changes the pitch of the notes played. The result is a funky, boinging sound. According to some, the berimbau was once a weapon not unlike a bow and arrow disguised as a musical instrument. A similar example is the famous capoeira dance, also native to Salvador. It is a cross between a dance and a martial art: it is a series of spins and kicks, although the participants never touch one another. If you’ve never seen it, it looks sort of like a Kung Fu movie set to music.

Visitors to Salvador are pleased and delighted by how much there is to see and do in the city. A number of musical/dance groups have sprung up: a good one to check out is Olodum, which was founded in 1979 and has performed around the world (you may remember them from Michael Jackson’s 1995 music video “They Don’t Care About Us.”) The city is home to a lively art scene: there are numerous theaters and art galleries. The city is home to the massive Lacerda Elevator, which was built in the nineteenth century to carry goods from the port to the city above.

The Bay of All Saints, upon which Salvador sits, is home to more than 100 shipwrecks and is a SCUBA diver’s paradise. The old town, still called Pelourinho, is home to the best cafes, hotels, restaurants, and nightlife. There are a number of fascinating colonial churches and museums. If that’s not enough, stop by during Carnival: according to locals (and some visitors) it’s more fun than the one in Rio de Janeiro.

Salvador is isolated enough that the best way to get there is to fly from Rio or Sao Paolo.