The Central Coast is a rare thing: both a popular tourist destination and an incredibly authentic Chilean experience. The capital of the region, and Chile's principle port, Valparaíso--known lovingly as Valpo--is a rich labyrinth of brightly-colored, expertly-graffitied houses that climb the steep cerros surrounding the bay. Instead of planning the city, it was allowed to grow like a coral reef—maybe one of the best descriptions of a place that really must be experienced on foot, at a leisurely and curious pace. Valpo was named Chile's “Arts Capital” in 2003, owing to its recently surging community of students, artists, writers and immigrants, and its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Just north along the coastal highway (a beautiful drive in itself) is the more clean-cut beach town of Viña del Mar, where both Chileans and tourists go to relax for the day or weekend in the sun and sand. It's a common destination for Chilean students, who fill up the beachfront hotels for the summer concerts held there (some of which are remembered years later, à la Woodstock). Viña is the glitz to Valpo's grit; both are truly Chilean, but in very different ways—fitting for a country that considers itself a land of contrasts.
By Kyle Adams Kyle just graduated Syracuse University with degrees in magazine journalism and anthropology. After his summer with V!VA, he'll be starting Peace...
Tour guides at Pablo Neruda’s Isla Negra home will claim that, of his many houses, this home was the place that most embodied the poet’s spirit. Neruda’s “Isla Negra” home is not on an
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The ex-prison on top of Cerro Cárcel is perhaps one of the most characteristic sites in the city. Only recently did the space shift from being a place of confinement to being one of liberal
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Historical Building
Cerro Cárcel , Valparaíso , Chile
Though marketed as the centerpiece of Valparaíso's visual art obsession, the Museo a Cielo Abierto is more typical of Valparaíso artwork than it is quintessential. The “museum” isn't really a
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This small museum, located inside the imposing Palacio Lyon, is the second oldest in Chile, first established in 1878 by Don Eduardo de la Barra. Inside you’ll find a comprehensive—though
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One of the biggest draws of the city of Valparaíso is the delightful madness of its design. For this reason, walks around the city will likely be the highlight of the trip. Though some like the idea
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La Sebastiana is a perfect testament to Neruda’s love for objects and gives lovers of Neruda special insight into his poetry. Handpicked items from around the world fill this house, which was
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Located in a time-worn building at the heart of Valparaíso's Old Town is the city market. Here you'll find a smattering of produce; vendors sell basic fruits and vegetables alongside some more
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A walk down to Prat Harbor gives you a sense of what makes the city of Valparaíso tick: huge barges move cargo holds from shipyards around the world to and fro, and hoards of small fishing boats
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This small gallery has an upper-crust air to it, with its dainty outdoor café and beautiful vista. Inside you'll find several rooms devoted to the artwork of the beloved Valparaíso-raised
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Our Chilean Cuisine Cooking Classes are fun and absolutely \"hands on\". You particpate in menu selection, buy the ingredients at the local market and then prepare your meal under the guidance of an
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Although many Chileans associate Valparaíso with trash-lined alleys and opportunistic thieves, visitors will be pleasantly surprised to find a slice of gritty bohemianism in two of the downtown’s
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