Local restaurants close early, between 9 and 10 p.m. Those geared to the foreign tourist crowd are open later. Basic meals are more expensive than in other parts of Chile, with specials costing $7 at lunch and $10 at dinners. Few eateries offer colaciones ($5). Local specialties include cazuela de gallina (hen stew) and asado al palo (lamb fire-roasted on an up-right pole). Delicious desserts are made from mosqueta and other regional fruits. A public market is being built on Carmona, near Laguna Espejo. Neighborhood general stores are common.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...
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