Population: 29,130 (2002 census)
Elevation: 144 feet (44 meters)
Telephone code: 65
Both literally and metaphorically, all roads in Chiloé lead to Castro. As Chiloé’s largest town, and very much its cultural, geographic, and transportation center, busy Castro gives visitors as good of an introduction to the island as they can get anywhere, and, for many, serves as a base for exploring outlying towns and villages. The city was founded in 1567, and is Chile’s third-oldest. Castro has had a troubled existence. The city was used by Dutch pirates as a short-lived base for conquering the island in 1600. Earthquakes, fires, and, in 1960, a massive tidal wave (an effect of the highly destructive earthquake which hit Chile’s south), have ravaged the city but Castro nevertheless retains many vestiges of its past. A great historical and architectural interest, this is the best place on the island to see the palafitos—traditional, and in some cases, run-down houses on a series of wooden stilts. The church (Iglesia San Francisco), though built relatively recently in 1906, charmingly dominates both the cityscape and the downtown plaza. Castro also has the island’s biggest concentration and variety of restaurants. Nowhere else in Chiloé will you have more options for sampling local seafood, nor more choices for branching out when you’ve had your fill of curanto, salmon and clams. The eateries span the gamut from high-end grills and hip cafés, to Italian restaurants, and yes, even Chinese food.Castro is also awash in lodging options, which is unsurprising since the city receives the majority of the island’s tourists. Budget travelers will find relatively clean, centrally located rooms with comfortable-enough beds and hot showers for $6.50 a night (keep in mind, however, that prices increase in peak months). If you’re looking for something upscale, say a suite overlooking the waterfront, with massage parlor and swimming pool, Castro has that too.Castro’s location, close to Chiloé’s geographic center, means that you’re never more than a day trip away from any of smaller towns. Transportation across the island is cheap and frequent, making the city a highly convenient base for further explorations.Castro, a bustling urban center, is not jammed with attractions. You could easily see the palafitos and church, enjoy a nice seafood meal, and head to the town’s craft market, all in less than a day. Still, Castro’s easy access to city comforts makes it a nice place to spend a few days, or at least to come back to for a drink and a meal after a long day in the Chiloé countryside.