
Exploring the streets of Osorno unveils many hidden delights of its faceted history. On the banks of the RÃo Rahue are the ruins of the Spanish fortress Fuerte Reina MarÃa Luisa. The German influences are seen in the former homes on Calle Mackenna, many of which are now restaurants and shops, and in the Cemeterio Alemán. The Plaza de Armas, fronted by the Catedral, is a pleasant place to take a breather. Near the northeast corner of the square is a gift from Nobel Prize-winning poet Gabriela Mistral. A memorial to the disappeared and executed during the 1973-1989 dictatorship is at Mackenna and RamÃrez. The surprises don’t end there. As well as the Museo Histórico Municipal, Osorno also has science and art museums, and several cultural centers.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...




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