Microbrews are a tradition in the region and Osorno is a member of that club, being home to Volcanes, which produces several types of beer including a chocolate bock. For inexpensive dining, ask for a colaciĂłn ($1-1.50). The daily menu (a three-course lunch) costs $4-8. Pick up food supplies at the Mercado Muncipal (Errázuriz 1400), which also has many cheap restaurants, or Supermercado LĂder (Errázuriz and ColĂłn). Both are close to the bus terminal. Frutos del Patio carries dried fruits, nuts, soy products and other foodstuffs suitable for camping or hiking (Monday-Saturday 9 a.m.-8 p.m. GalerĂa Patio Freire, local 7, Tel.: 37-5885, E-mail: frutosdelpatio@vtr.cl).
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...
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